Using a track saw to repurpose salvaged T&G antique Pine flooring
I have purchased a Dewalt track saw, extended track and a couple of accessory guides. I want to rip down into three different widths salvage flooring of varying widths and thicknesses. Then I’ll have a local mill run it through their 5-head machine to achieve same thickness and new T&G for installation in our old farm house in rural Virginia. I am trying to save money on material prep and handling at the mill by giving him squared up rips in the max salvage width that I can get out of each board.
I am new to this tool and trying to figure out how best to set up a cutting jig on saw horses that can support the material while I rip the edges off and rip to desired widths. It seems tricky in that you need to run all the way through the material while keeping the saw from cutting any supporting material. Any good techniques for this would be appreciated.
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Good for you for getting a track saw. It’s one of those tools that I find more and more uses for the longer I have it.
One of the ways you can get the most precise depth is by putting the saw on the track with the track just overhanging the edge of the board you’re going to cut through. You do need to set it a little deeper than the thickness of the material. Attach a sacrificial 2x4 to the top of your saw horses and you should just nick the 2x4 each time. That being said I usually set it 3/16” to 1/4” deeper to make sure I get all the way through the first time.
If the board is so narrow that the track doesn’t have enough lateral support you can put second board of the same thickness next to the one your cutting just for support.
A vacuum attached makes it all more enjoyable if you have it.
I appreciate the tips. Dewalt must must make an attachment for this saw.
The track saw is awesome. I have a piece of rigid insulation that use as a sacrificial surface. Just set the saw slightly deeper than the wood thickness and you can work on any bench surface or plywood on saw horses. I would use the tracksaw to square up one edge ( a jointer could do this too) and then rip the piece on a tablesaw - that way you will get a standard width on every piece.
That's a great suggestion. I have some leftover 1/2", 1", and 2" rigid foam around. Lightweight and easy to work with. Support where needed. Maybe I should be working off of a sheet of plywood, maybe two feet wide. Then use the foam board in strips to support the material. Finally, lay the track over the foam support and align the cut with a gap in the foam strips. I could clamp to the plywood to hold a cupped board in place that I am trying to rip. Thanks!
a table saw would be the better way, however, I'm guessing you don't have one. I have a skilsaw flooring saw that I use for flooring work. it's fairly inexpensive and lets you cross cut and rip flooring sitting on saw horses.
depending on the thickness might work better for you since you're doing kind of rough sizing.
The track saw is a great tool but maybe not the best for ripping somewhat narrow stock.
https://www.skil.com/7amp-flooring-saw-3601-02/
good luck
I have one, my first shop tool, a Craftsman 1.5 hp 10" with a router table end cap. The issue is that some of these boards are bowed, cupped or over 8-12' long. My plan was to take say a cupped 14" 1 1/4 board and rip into two or three pieces to minimize the cup before planing. So I thought that a track saw was the most stable way to rip them. What I'm reading is maybe I should rip one side then finish with the table saw and add out-feed and roller support. My initial post was how to stabilize that first cut on the outside edge and handle the last more narrow pieces. I think some support is necessary if not for a clean rip but for stability and safety as well. I really appreciate the responses. Thanks.
You mean crosscut to get shorter straighter pieces then rip to width? If they are cupped too much to flatten and have 5/8ths thickness despite your desire to recycle they aren't worth using unless you have a small, narrow space like a closet to floor with them.
other quick thought, be sure you go over the salvage material and get any nails/steel out - only takes one to ruin your blades
I have a metal detector wand and had the salvage crew pull screws and nails for most of the material. Thanks.
Have to second the table saw for ripping. I love my Festool track saw and tracks but if I had a lot of ripping to do I'd use a table saw. Maybe you can rent one? If so get a new blade and maybe add a nice flat and straight section of hardwood to the factory fence, set the width , connect dust collector and go to town.
If you have to use the track saw I suggest you build a frame to support the track and align each piece to cut. I'd use pocket screws and make sure it is flat and square.
Good luck
carver, Could you expand on "build a frame to support the track" I think this is where I was headed in the post.
The track will not sit securely on a single length of the reclaimed flooring. If all the flooring can be cut down to relatively straight sections of "X" length it might be worth making a rectangle frame with the track clamped or screwed to the frame and enough space under the right edge to allow a piece of flooring to be slid under and rip cut.
The track will give an almost perfect straight line but repeatedly lining it up to the width of the piece to be cut can get old in a hurry.
A frame or platform of the right thickness ( equal to the flooring) under which a piece of the flooring can be slid(?) then quickly cut could save a lot of time.
what's the final width and thickness for your flooring? if you're going for something standard (width varies but typical is 3/4 inch thick) then you should be just rip it to whatever standard size the mill tells you and the the mill will handle the cupping and squaring up the edges - 14 inch wide won't have too much of a cup if you rip it to 3 inch - edges won't be 90 to the face but the mill should be able to fix that
get a new ripping blade that has a thin kerf (although a heavier blade would cut better, may get a blade stabilizer) and use an outfield table, you should be set with the table saw to get it done efficiently and safely
good luck