Replies

1. 
   calvin | Apr 02, 2010 04:33pm | #1

   Well

   You could use 2-1/2 " deck screws suitable for use in treated lumber if you have a wood plate-and treated is what you want to use for that plate..  I'm thinking the deck screws are #8 and a star drive would help you putting them in.  Toe screw staggered one on each side-you could use one through the edge too if you wish.

2. 
   bd | Apr 02, 2010 04:44pm | #2

   holmes & screws

   I'd be surprised that if anyone here would be able to answer that question accurately. Have not heard anyone advocate following Holmes' passion for using screws in all situations.

   Given that the basement framing consists of unloaded partition walls, I'd venture a guess that you should use just enough to make-do. Probably one from each side if you have access to both sides. There's basically no load on the wall, so you'd need just enough to keep the stud from twisting until the finished wall covering was installed.

   Ed

1. 
   DanH | Apr 02, 2010 07:32pm | #5

   What-his-name, the CRX guy out on the Left Coast was really high on screws.   I think he's still around.

3. 
   junkhound | Apr 02, 2010 05:29pm | #3

   Obviously, if any of the old crew were still left here,

   somebody surely would have already  mentioned using 2 each 3-1/2" Piffin screws. 

   Multi-purpose, great for hanging cainets, any structual purpose, etc.. <G>  

   Whoops, day late for april 1st..........

1. 
   calvin | Apr 02, 2010 05:56pm | #4

   What.

   bd says there's no accurate answer to be given, you make it sound like there's no one left.

   This might be the Alamo,

   but Santa Anna isn't dancing yet.

1. 
   bd | Apr 05, 2010 07:00am | #11

   Cal,

   You didn't answer the question, either. The OP asked how & where Holmes puts his screws, not where you'd put yours.........;-)

   That's why I said there'd be no accurate answer.

   Ed

1. 
   calvin | Apr 05, 2010 07:20am | #12

   Good golly Ed

   You really read closely.  Me, I infer a bit too much I guess.

   Except for when somebody asks how much to re-wire and plumb a house I've never seen before.  There's no infering that one.

   I watched a few minutes of Holmes last weekend.  Man, that guy looks mean.

1. 
   DanH | Apr 05, 2010 08:12am | #13

   Don't get cable, so I don't see that show very often, but when I do I don't know whether to be amazed or apalled.

   The thing is that TV performers on shows like that have to be like radio talk show hosts -- always at least putting up a face of being 100% sure of themselves and never being stuck for an answer.  Cock-sure and take no prisoners.  The thing is, you never know whether they're really like that or just acting.

4. 
   Piffin | Apr 02, 2010 09:13pm | #6

   Mike Holmes makes half of it up as he goes. Screws are far from typical for framing, and basement partition walls are not structural, so what ever holds things together for you is fine - even a piffin screw or two.

1. 
   DanH | Apr 02, 2010 09:33pm | #7

   In addition, it should be noted that the toenails in studs carry essentially no load -- all the load is on the wood-wood joint.

   In fact, in a properly stick-framed structure the regular nails (those not used in joist hangers, etc) should never be carrying any continuous force -- the members should be arranged so that gravity does all the work, pressing wood into wood.  The fasteners simply hold things together during construction and assure that pieces don't slip laterally later.  (And, of course, they do provide some real structural function when the structure is subjected to wind load, etc.)

1. 
   davegill | Apr 03, 2010 01:01pm | #10

   using screws

   I can think of several reasons for the screw Mike Holmes uses, or the use of screws. Load bearing or not, a lot of their projects have wall framing. Besides the risk of "nailing one of the crew" with a slipping framing gun (close quarter work they do), framing lumber will eventually dry out, causing many coated nails to work loose. Screws are really spiral clamps. Dry or wood or not, they tend to hold pretty well. Loose nails cause squeaks.

   You'll notice that they can't really glue their wallboard, a lot of the time, because they use plastic vapor barrier a lot. Considering this, there will not be much support from drywall later on.

   Also, and I've run into this a few times, they tend to work some pretty long days, in primarily subdivision type locations. NOTHING irritates neighbors more than blasting 3" nails with a gun, or worse, hammering them in, during the evening hours.

   As far as screws, depending on the number involved, I'll ALWAYS use star drive (GRK). Their superior strength can't be beat. For larger jobs, square drive sometimes have to be used. Most of these are made in China, and are very brittle, and have a small shank diameter, quite easy to snap off just running them in. Which ever type I use, I always use 3 per stud end, 2 on one side, and one centered on the opposite side.

   Especially with remodeling, screws enable quick easy changes without destroying the wood.

   Dave

5. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Apr 03, 2010 12:47pm | #8

   As being the one guy here who uses screws just about exclusively (I make a lot of mistakes, it's easier to fix them with screws :) here are my thoughts on using screws to frame:

   Don't use a #8 screw for anything, ever.  #8 screws are good for holding down deck boards, but that's it.  The shank is too thin to support the side loads that a framing fastener must absorb.

   #9 and #10 screws are the size you should use, if you use them, they are closer matches for the diameter and strength of the 8d to 16d nails.  Use a square drive or star drive head - philips head screws just suck. Keep in mind that the head on most deck/wood screws are angled for countersinking... which makes for super great wood splitting on the end grain of lumber!  When using a conventional woodscrew to toenail, sink it so the screw head is just touching the face of the wood... any more than that forces the end grain apart.

   McFeelys, Screw Products, and GRK make construction screws that have pan/washer heads - flat on the side of the head that meets wood.  I like using this kind for toenail connections: I take a 1/2" spade bit drill and place the tip about 1" away from the end of the board.  I run the bit in just enough for the pointed tip to be bedded, then I gently lay the bit sideways with the grain of the wood.  This creates a recessed pocket for the screw head with a flat bottom to seat against - similar to a Kreg pocket hole but not as deep.

   If you are going to use them for metal connector hardware (like joist hangers for instance), Simpson now has a new line of screws for use with their connectors called SD9 and SD10 screws (not to be confused with the older SD8 and SDS screws).  While initially leary of a hex head, I'm completely won over by these new screws.

   http://www.grkfasteners.com/selection_guide.htm

   http://www.mcfeelys.com/index.asp

   http://www.screw-products.com/

   http://www.strongtie.com/sdscrews/index.html?source=hppromo

6. 
   DanH | Apr 03, 2010 12:58pm | #9

   One big advantage of using screws is that, when doing remodeling type work, you can fasten things without knocking the drywall loose or doing other damage.  With nails (unless you have an air nailer), by the time you (especially if you're an amateur) have the nail all the way in, you've knocked the three adjacent joints loose.  Or at the very least that stud that you spent 5 minutes getting perfectly lined up had drifted 3/4" off the mark.

   These aren't such big issues for pros because 1) they can sink a nail in about 1/3 the number of strikes, 2) they know how to compensate for drift, etc, 3) they're more likely working on new construction rather than minor remodeling, and 4) (most importantly) they're probably using an air nailer.