Valley framing:
When building an addition over an existing roof line; Do you install the valley frame work over the existing sheathing of the house or do you cut out the existing sheathing in order to install the support boards and the jack rafters then the addition sheathing first, then butt the original sheathing to it?
I was toll the latter by a roofer with 25 years of experience and I believe he is wrong but I don’t have the years of experience to prove him wrong, that’s why I’m turning to the pro’s for the right way.
Thank You for any info. Reysie
Edited 11/6/2008 8:50 pm ET by Reysie
Replies
Rysie: I am not a framing expert..ok? But I am adding on to my stairshop and just framed my valleys yesterday. I put down a 1x 8 for my 2x6 rafters to nail to.
Stan
Thank you that attachment is a great help' but I still need to know if that roofer is correct.
Reysie
May not have understood the question, but I just nail my valley board onto existing sheathing, run my jacks and then sheath. Didn't quite follow the other suggestion.
Dont forget to cut access through the old sheatin to make the new roof attic accessable, might need it for air flow depending on venting.
Stan's all over it!
I've done a lot like he's doing, you do however have to be careful to insulate and vent the newly created dead air space properly...
Cheers,Phil.
"If 'tis to be,'twil be done by me."
Roofer is incorrect. It doesn't HAVE to be done that way.
The manner he described works , but isn't necessary. What Stan or others suggested works and is easier and less messy. Access as others noted is needed.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Thank you dovetail for that insight. Keep up the good work.
Reysie
Nada. People shared with me.
Pay back time.
Think about it. All you need to do is spread the weight of the new rafters over the old support . That is unless the old support is so lacking in the ability to support that it needs replacement.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I agree with stan. I've dont it that way many times. Just make sure that you nail the sleeper valleys down into the rafters underneath and not just into the plywood.
Stan does what I do with one change.
Here a 2x piece of stock is required for the valley board and it must support the entire length of the jacks level cut. Exceptions are made if you use 2-2x4 as the valley board,one at the toe and one at the heel of the jack level cut.
Also jacks have to be tied together at 6' intervals as if they had joists . ( Meaning a cross member tying them together at the valley )
CaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
CaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
That's it.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
We always use a 2x12 and then 2x4. Whenever the roof is engineered, that is what is spec'd.
We used to use 1x6 and use up our footing boards :-)
You might take a look at Mike's thread for some additional photos of what you are looking for
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=112323.1
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Him being a roofer maybe he meant to cut the shingles and install the valley directly on the wood sheathing.