Don’t know if Grant has shown one of these before , but I’ll show some pictures anyway.
Used 20 oz. copper for the cylinder and base to completely cover the old cast iron waste pipes on this house.
I don’t care for the look of the copper / neoprene flashing and still see the long ugly cast iron showing above them.
Made a base and hemmed 3 sides , kicked the bottom slightly, then fitted the cylinder to the base.
Soldered the inside first , then turn over and do the outside.
After install I cut the top to 3/4″ longer than the cast , notch every 3/4″ and bend down onto the cast and solder the top.
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Then to slate it in.
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Walter,
Thanx for sharing.
So much better than the aluminum/neoprene boots.
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Chuck,
Thank you for looking in and leaving feedback.
Best regards , Walter
It verges on the spiritual, your workmanship. Thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks for the very kind comments.
Walter
Walter,
That's lovely! A gold star for creative work.
What's the little copper hook in between the slates and to the left of the vent pipe for?
Best,
Steve
View Image'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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What's the little copper hook in between the slates
He's probably out on the roof right now while I'm sitting here avoiding paperwork, AKA rain day.
That's a slate hook. When you need to replace a slate and can't get to the nailing area, you drive one of those into the roof sheathing (it's got a 90d bend and a sharp prong you can't see). Slide the slate under the slate above and let it drop back into the hook.
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Thanks. Now I see that there was more than one.You sure you're not just avoiding lady drivers with cell phones today?'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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He's pullin yer leg, those are for Slate fish. They only live on slate rooves.
Hey no kidding, Dale and I were on a certain PITA customer's slate roof ( a real celebrity here, Grant remembers him, and ply wood on the grass for the boom lift) and he had a few nails and such missing, with holes visable, and when he asked about that, Dale and I informed of the " Damm Slate Bee's " that drill them.
Really had him convinced he had em bad..almost talked him into getting a bug man out to spray..LMAO.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
Steve,
Grant has already explained the answer to your question very well.
Just bought a Compaq laptop that a friend bought several months ago but wasn't using -- so now i can post from the truck !!
I'll take my air card , card reader for my memory sticks and there'll be no safe haven.
Walter
Thanks Walter. I'd be interested in seeing the photos of how the top joint over the cast iron is done (if you have any lying around).Good to hear about the new laptop. Look forward to seeing you put that stuff to good use!Best,
Steve'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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Steve,
I haven't completed that step yet , but will post some next week after I've done it.
Walter
Walter with too many more post from you and Grant I'll be able to do my own copper roofs! Looks good. the bay roofs i built will be getting copper soon will try to get some pics.
We're all looking forward to those pictures that will complete that well structured bay.
Walter
steve,
Here are the pictures I told you I'd take.
Walter
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Thanks Walter,I appreciate you remembering to post them. For some reason I anticipated that the soldering would be done on the inside of the pipe instead of the top. Thanks for showing me what it's supposed to look like!Could you make a cap (with a flat top and an inner and outer wall) instead that slides down over the cast iron and copper? Maybe that's more decorative than one needs to be at that height?Best,
Steve'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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Steve,
Thats another very nice way to do the top of that unit.
Walter
Walter,Now that I think of it, is there a market for decorative caps for pipes like that, like there is for chimney caps? Maybe you and Grant need to get together and corner the market? :)Thanks again for posting your work. It's always a pleasure to see it.Best,
Steve'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
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Steve,
You could probably market those along with conductor heads, finials and other vents and such much like Vulcansupply.com does.
Walter
Looks good, Walter.
I usually only make 'em out of copper if the roof is steeper than 12/12 on slate or shingles. Otherwise, we use lead.
For copper roofs, we cut the pan around the vent pipe and slip a flanged tube over it and solder on the top side only. We try to layout so the seam doesn't hit the vent pipe.
notch every 3/4" and bend down onto the cast and solder the top.
Here's a tip - next time try crimping the 3/4" over the top of the pipe with your downspout crimpers. They'll lay the copper almost horizontal and it'll easily hammer on over to the inside. Saves the soldering and looks pretty nice.
I've got three way cool projects in the works to show you. I'll probably start posting pics of one this weekend.
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Grant,
Thanks for the tip -- I'll try that out on the next one I do.
Looking forward to your new projects threads. I bet Groupie is too !!
Get Dale a little digital so he can record the install sequences when you're not there . Easy for me to help spend your dough !!
Walter
Get Dale a little digital so he can record the install sequences when you're not there .
He's got a much better camera than mine. He gets rolling and never thinks to take pix.View Image
Cool. Is the tube a pre-made downspout or something, or did you make it? If made, how about a pic of the seam on the tube? Did you seam it by hand, or with some sort of seaming tool? And, it's kink-free to boot! How'd ya bend it?
Mike Hennessy
Pitsburgh, PA
Mike,
A friend with a more well equipt shop rolls and pipe locks those for me.
You have to kick them in the brake too then roll and lock.
Here are a couple shots.
Walter
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"A friend with a more well equipt shop rolls and pipe locks those for me."
Rats! I was hopin' for a secret method for rolling & locking cylinders without a trillion bucks worth of equipment. ;-(
Still cool, though.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Here's how we did it on site.
Take the dia. of the vent x PI and add an inch heavy. Make a loose hem ( open lock fold) on each end on opposite faces, roughly roll it round and then put it over a scaffold brace and lock the folds by increasingly tapping with your hammer on the seam. when its locked fully, undo the scaffold brace and slide the collar off..solder the seam.
It's pretty simple.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
slide the collar off..solder the seam.
He's getting a pittsburg type lock made like what's on downspout. View Image
"He's getting a pittsburg type lock made like what's on downspout."
Seems appropriate, somehow. ;-)
Mike HennessyPittsburgH, PA
Yup Walter does, Mike was looking for an alternative I thought.
Hey, he's IN Pittsburgh, should be easy..LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
"roll it round and then put it over a scaffold brace and lock the folds by increasingly tapping with your hammer on the seam."
LOL! The way I do things, I'd end up with a copper-clad scaffold frame! ;-)
I was thinking I could maybe roll it around some sch. 40 or sumpin', so's not to kink it too much.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
That'd help some, but it don't kink too bad if your kind to it.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
16 oz. is a little easier to hand roll than 20 oz. too.
True that, you sem to gravitate towards 20oz, where as when I was involved with Grant, we normally used 16oz and later he used some 12oz for certain things.
I just got some 16 for wrapping some window sills, hadn't considered 20, being as I am no accustomed to it.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
Mainly cause of " erosion corrosion " is why I prefer 20 oz. Water dripping off the jagged slate edges wears the sheet out over time. That extra 4 oz. per sq. ' helps to give some extra years.
Well, duh..I shoulda known that, I've seen it with mine own eyes on barrel dormers mostly.
Slate is a small sector of roofs here and for me.
Thanks.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
You can do a groove lock seam.
A brake is required to turn the hem... you *could* do it with a nice set of seamers and some (well, a lot of) patience.
You could roll the material around the form of your choice- or use a slip roll setup.
You will need a backer of some kind to close the seam, like a chunk of steel pipe (or a Pexto hollow mandrel).
You will also need a Pexto groove lock seam tool, which can be had on eBay for a little bit of money... and a wooden mallet.
go to http://www.thesheetmetalshop.com and search for info on a groove lock seam.
It looks like the seam on the pictured pipe was done on a pittsburgh machine with a set of Acme rolls.
Cool site -- thanks for the heads up!
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA