Hi All — I have a very simple question… I am very nearly embarrassed to ask.. but I need an answer somehow.<!—-> <!—-><!—->
I am about to begin finishing my basement and of course the existing stubs for the bathroom are not where we need them. I plan to break-up the concrete and lay new drains. It will be a 3/4 bath. <!—-><!—->
Exactly how far from my existing concrete walls do I plum for the toilet and the shower? While we are at it… How do I vent these drains? (I know I can use an in-line vent on the sink.) <!—-><!—->
Edited 8/1/2006 2:12 pm by NCLaquer
Replies
I don't think these are simple questions.
and some numbers are based on finished surfaces IIRC
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter WFR
I plan to use 2x4 framing and 1/2" drywall.
My suggestion is don't use an in-line vent on the sink (an air admittance valve); plan for a real vent here, not a band-aid approach.
Commode is 12 inches drom the finished wall.
Shower is center .
Tim
It's not "how far from existing walls", but "how far from future finished walls" that's the question. And the answer depends on your fixtures.
IIRC (and my memory isn't legendary), toilet standards are 10", 12", 14", and a few at 15-16" (from wall surface to center of drain), though 12" is by far the most common. (But decide on a specific toilet and check it's requirements -- some "designer" toilets are 10".)
For shower pans it obviously depends on the pan, and you need to know how the pan and any attached enclosure will be "mate" with the wall, so RTFM. (If you're not using a pre-formed pan, of course, then you can set the drain pretty much anywhere you like, within reason.)
If you're unsure on the venting, find a book that describes what you need.
Don't use a Studor-style vent for the sink. You need a "real" vent for the other fixtures anyway, so might as well share that, plus the Studor isn't always legal (especially when just used for convenience -- most inspectors only want it used when there's no other option).
shower varies depending on what size you buy, go check out lowes or home depot with a tape, toilet should be 12" from finished wall, with at least a 36" wide rough opening.
vent toilets and showers downstream of trap with a sweep/tee and plumb up and out as best you can. if you are going to remove concrete anyway leave room to run vents alongside and up through walls.
now is the time to think about cleanouts. i love cleanouts, i have girls! stinking hair gets everywhere.
check out rex cauldwell's books on plumbing and electrical in the taunton's for pros by pros series, rex is the man!
> the existing stubs for the bathroom are not where we need them.
They may be where they are because the waste lines need to slope downward 1/4" per foot. That may be the most significant design constraint, unless you want to pay for and maintain one of those grinder/pump setups. The first thing to do is find out where the existing DWV runs, and from that figure out where you could put things without the pump.
-- J.S.
Forget busting up the floor and use a " Sani-Flush unit
they will handle up to 12' of rise and 36' horizontal using a 3/4 " line
I have done granny suites using this system in basements with no trouble
Here you can get them at home depot