These folks have a pair of french doors facing the water, about three years old, and someone clear-finished them with something that cracked, peeled, etc. The damage was not controlled and the stile/rail joints have gone beyond repair (by me, anyway). The likely task is to replace them with new VG fir doors and then refinish clear. A guy who may supply the doors mentioned something called ‘PPG’, but I’ve never heard of that. I’ve used clear poly in some situations before, but not as exposed as this is.
What’s the best clear finish on fir doors, for a weather situation?
Replies
my memory was that it is a sealant/coating that door and window manufacturers use on the raw wood as the cut and assemble so I googles for it. Apparantly they are a major coatings manufacturer and one product might be what these guys were refeering to.
http://corporate.ppg.com/PPG/SBU/ArchitecturalFinishes/ResidentialPaintsandStains/default.htm
I have not done much clear work on exteriors. I know that the boat people here make a lot of money dong bright work over and over again every other season./
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Marine spar varnish. Not polyurethane varnish...which isn't varnish at all, but the misnomer has (sigh!) passed into the common tongue....
There is no weather harder on woodwork than that out at sea; salt water is not just wet, it's corrosive and abrasive, too. Anything that can stand up to that kind of abuse for a year or two ought to hold on for quite a while on a pair of doors not subjected to green water washing over them in a big blow....
I've got a red cedar front door I re-coated with a single coat of spar varnish about 14 years ago. It's starting to look like I might have to redo it again one of these years. (To be fair, it is protected from both direct rain and sun, but still, 14 years is a pretty long stretch....)
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
Mc Closky (sp?) Man- O - War..man, that was the stuff..I t'ink Minwane bought the name..formula is the same tho'..
spar-urethane..long oil resin, uv protected w/jap driers...flex, yet hard, UV outta the azz..don't let a can get old..that stuff?
never used it.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
I was hopin' you'd chime in on this one. You oughta have better technical info on what makes varnish varnish than most of the rest of us....Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
long oil resin vs. short oil..no match
add a UV inhibitor= spar (from the Spars an Masts)
Crosslink co-poly's are good ( POLY as we know it) but sans UV in hibs, are useless
A polmerized long oil, is the way..for long term
a short chain POLY is no molecular comparison,,,lots a little blobs adhereing, not BINDING..= short life in duress..
basically, a flexable long varnish, w/o excess "flow" addys//and no "characteristic" amber add in's....a pure resin, with the least amount of addys..
Man-O War..was/is the best..ask a boat builder, not a sailor.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Sphere
I used McClusky's Man-o-war Spar Varnish on my Front door about 20 years ago.
While not exposed to rain very much, it's lasted great all these years.
Jeff
Lemme guess... that'll have the heavy look... thick, lots of build, lots of amber.
you got it..but the plus side is that it really does work..I don't need to tell you that UV is the real culprit.
As long as the "ambering" doesn't continue...all is well, some other spar varnishes ( the name escapes me at the moment) continue to cloud, or amber...it's a resin thing..and really look like crap after a period of time.
McClosky nailed it..but I am almost certain it has been dinked with since the original formulation was sold.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Any thoughts on using Sutherland Welles pplymerized tung oil for exterior work? I have a door i am working on for our reniovation and I would prefer to not use a heavy build, high gloss finish. i don't mind a simple re-application with a penatrating finish. What's your thoughts?
If it doesn't have any UV blockers added, I wouldn't use it. I'd have to see the lable, being as I am not familiar with it. Just bear in mind, MOST "tung oils" are really just thinned varnish.
Thin some Man-O-War...wipe it on with a rag, repeat as needed..thin with Naptha instead of mineral Spirits..drys a bit faster. A capfull per quart of Japan drier is also helpful.
edit: I just read up on it, the exterior stuff sounds good..it does have UV protection...a lotta hype on the web site, but it sounds like a decent product..
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Edited 9/5/2004 4:32 pm ET by SPHERE
Thanks for the input. My concern about Man-O-War is repairability. Since its a film finish (I assume) how easy is it to repair?
I also have a stained cedar porch swing to finish. My concern here regarding film finish is moveability. The porch swing gives a little when you sit down and use it. Wouldn't Man-O-War crack when the adjoining wood pieces flex?
It stays flexible, and is easily recoated, with a light scuff sanding.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
I remember you are in San Juans?
I've used these products mentioned and would not be a detractor but I've most recently used a Daly's product ( Seattle ) waterborne type "spar" urethane that may maintain original color better and "move" more betta John
I assume we're talking about oceans and salt water here, right?
I have used McCloskey's (MOW), and it is a great product, but I am inland (MN) where salt water is not a problem.
I would suggest you confer with a top paint store in your area to see what they recommend, but I would also talk to a marine products supplier. They often carry spar varnishes that normally don't show up in regular retail outlets.
UV inhibitors are expensive, and you should expect a price that will take your breath away when buying a really top of the line Spar varnish.
Spar Varnish is not repairable (without stripping); the trick is to recoat before the finish has begun to seriously deteriorate.