An 8’ x 25’ wall hosting a large shed roof on top blew out 3â€. I see why and know how to lock it in. But I have never dealt with a blow out before. I want to bring it back in. The roof is all ready shingled. That’s why it blew out they stacked too much in one spot. I was thinking of putting a strong back on the out side near the top of the wall with two come alongs to suck it in. At the same time two jacks also lifting the top of the rafters, back to flush on the ridge. I know there is memory to deal with so once it’s all back to plumb I will put steal connectors on every thing. Your thoughts are appreciated?
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It didn't blow out because they stacked too much in one spot. There is a structural problem. You should find out what it is and correct it before you try to move anything.
It was a blessing that it blew out now. I know what it lacked and how to tie it in correctly. Just need to know is this the best way to pull it in?
The top of the oposite wall can suck in. Brace it.
Place connectors everywhere else before trying to move blown out part.
Assuming you are building new, I am guessing you have new T&G subfloor exposed and the studs in the wall are exposed. You can set up what is called a kicker every four feet or so, depending on the amount of force required. The technique is to nail a 2X4 brace about 16 feet long (or shorter if there is insufficient room) to the top plate of your wall and to the floor so it is oriented at about a 30 degree angle to the floor. The orientation of the brace will be with the flat side to the floor. Make sure that where you nail to the floor there is a joist underneath the subfloor for the nails to grab on to. Place about five 12D or four 16D nails into the floor. Do the same at a strong point on the top plate. I like to nail straignt up through the 2X4 and into the top plate. Make sure you have a good strong connection at both ends. If the floor joists run parallel to the wall, add the step of nailing another 2X4 to span at least two joists to the floor, with about two or three nails in each joist. Then nail the lower end of your brace onto that 2X4. Now hold up another 2X4 (kicker) at a perpendicular orientation to the brace so it looks like an arrow in a bow. Mark a spot that will make the kicker about six to eight inches longer than if you were to fit it between the floor and the brace. After you cut the kicker, place it on the floor beneath the brace and push it from the wall end under the brace in such a way as to cause the brace to bow upward, pulling in the wall. If you cannot get the kicker to slide in under the brace smoothly, stop and move the base of the kicker closer to the wall. If it bows out the brace too easily and not far enough to solve your problem, move the kicker a bit farther from the wall. If you place enough of these, you can pull any wall in. I guess it will take about three or four to do the job. Good luck. Hope this makes sense.
Yes it is new construction and the walls are exposed.
The wall is 20 feet in length made of 2x6. There is shed dormer about 17’ long that is already shingled landing on this wall.
Ceiling rafters go from wall to partition then stop. Next room is a gable dormer ceiling joist went the other direction. Mistake one… Should have made three or four triangles between rafter and ceiling joist would have locked them in. I know better than this.
There is also a wall that intersects both out side wall and the partition that was mentioned. The temporary braced was removed by the plumber. This mistake…. should have had a let in bracing.
All ready Simpson tied the studs in all walls to top and bottom plates.
I like the idea about the bow and arrow pull back, but….. My concern is, the rafters pinched into the top plate and slide down ½ to about ¾ of an inch. How can it slide back up with out a gentile push from a loving jack? The bow and arrow sounds like it will replace the come alongs. But I feel I need two roof jacks at least with a header to push up the 4 rafters that slide. The roof is heavy.
You need to remove the weight of the rafters from the entire length of the blowout.
You need to design and construct a temp wall inside the blowout area . Cant the temp top plate to match the rafter slope and tie it to the rafters to prevent any relative movement.
You won't , nor should you, have to remove any hardware from the other ends, as you only have to lift the rafters 1/128" above the plate of the blowout.
Take your time, the temp wall has to be of good quality and well braced even though it will only be used for a few moments. I am using the term "wall" knowing that it will be made with jacks.
SamT
If the ends of the rafters have a 2x6 or larger header then make sure they are nailed correctly. I would use 16d galv common nails, you are nailing into end grain.If possible toe nail 16d nails from rafter into back side of header. Place mudsill ( 2x10 or larger ) on ground under header. Cut 4x4's or doubled 2x4's about one inch longer than vertical height.One near each end and about 6'-0" centers. Use a flat bar to pinch the posts plumb by levering at mudsill. Temporarily fasten top of post to header. This will lift the rafters clear of wall plate. Cut nails off with sawzall, at plate line and under rafters. Do you have ceiling joists, if not that may be the reason the wall spread. Add 2x ceiling joists with simpson anchors after plumbing and straighting walls. You probably do not need to use a comealong. Probably can push and tap ( sledge hammer) the wall plumb. Add simpson rafter ties to wall plate when done. If the rafters have pulled away from the ridge a lot, you have more problems. Worse scenario , remove and rebuild.
mike