What product should I use in the “dry” areas of my bathroom remodel? It will be tiled ~ 42 inches up and the remainder painted. My plan was to use mold resistance wall board or green board. Is it overkill to use fiberrock? Any suggestions?
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Use the green board (moisture and mold resistant) and a good Kitchen and Bath paint. Something in an eggshell finish at least. Nothing in Matt finish.
Thanks for the tip.
Mike
Drywall is fine as a tile substrate on dry walls.
If you are concerned about mold an excellent paint for bathrooms is Zinsser Mildew Proof Bathroom Paint. It's self priming, really easy to clean, and produces a beautiful, even finish. It forms a film more quickly than acrylic paint, so it tends to dry on the bristles of a brush more quickly and you have to keep moving right along. It can be tinted (I do it all the time) but you must use only 75% of the tint amount, like the directions say, because tints produce darker colors in that paint.
I like this idea but I think I will use it with Greenboard mold resistance it probably can't hurt.
Thanks
Mike
House,
At the suggestion of my tile guy I did all the walls and ceiling with Perma-base a type of concrete backer board. The joints taped-up fine and 2 skim coats later it looked great and still does 5 years later!
Mark
dry wall?, drywall
wet wall?, waterproof ..
why skim coat if it's not needed?
I should have clarified that I used it in the areas that get tile as well as the areas that didn't, hence the skim coats before primer & paint.
Mark
Greenboard is fine for tiled dry walls in a bathroom, but make it 5/8".
Hello Hudson:
I am just curious, why 5/8? Is it just because it is more dense, fire resistance, etc? I typiclly rock with 5/8.
Thanks,
Mike
1/2" green is really pushing it as a base for tile, IMO. If the bathroom door gets slammed hard, there's likely to be enough vibration through 1/2" rock to loosen the grout in wall tile.
Another thing is towel bar fasteners. The screw in shields hold a lot better in 5/8".
In general, any room that needs to feel solid, like a bathroom, should get 5/8" throughout, IMO.
1/2" green board is not allowed in NJ as a base for tile (FYI)
I would use moisture-resistant drywall in baths, generally (not behind tile). Most of it around here is purple.
Jeff
Edited 7/25/2009 1:03 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
Even in dry areas?
Yes - here's what it says (context is use as a tile backer board):R702.3.8.1 - Water resistant gypsum backing board shall not be used where there will be direct exposure to water, or in areas subject to continous high humidity.
I would definitely use it in non-tile application construction.
We have several spaces (mudroom, exterior shed) for instance that have greater temperature swings than most spaces and usually higher moisture. Mudroom has sink, orchidarium, etc. that are sources of moisture.
Have had very good luck with using the MR drywall plus exterior paint for these applications, although it would be a bit ropey for a bathroom. Garage too (heated but with greater swings, no A/C).
Jeff
Edited 7/25/2009 1:11 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
Makes sense to me.
Makes sense. Where the durock meets the dry area I'll need to keep it 1/2" for the transition (used 1/2" durock) but on the other walls I'll use 5/8 GB.
Thank you
Mike
FWIW, I use the DensArmour paperless drywall, and like it.
Now you are talkin bathroom drywall! Paperless drywall=No food for mold. Last year I was involved in a new school's construction. The original spek was for paper 5/8 drywall. There was a water problem, and mold grew on the drywall. After that the architect called for all the paper drywall to be removed, and replaced with the fiberglass drywall.
Thanks for the tip.
Mike
Thanks for the tip.
Mike