Hello,
I am installing 4″ x 3/4″ walnut flooring for the fisrt time. It will be finished on-site. The wood is a combination of select & #1 Common. Several of the boards have knots, and holes that give it a very nice character, but I am concerned about the long term effects of those holes. It would seem that over time they may get larger (high heel damage etc…) or be difficult to clean etc…
I am considering using a 2 part epoxy to fill the holes and checks before I sand & finish the floors. The sealer will be a celar poly and no stain will be necessary. Has anyone tied the epoxy idea? What are the short/long term problems that might arise from this idea? Would anyone else think this is a good idea? My thinking is that by using the epoxy, I will get back to a smooth finish with no voids. I have done this on some woodworking projects with good success, but never on a floor.
Thanks for the advice.
Doug MacKay
Replies
Be SURE that the top coat of whatever finish you use has a UV inhibitors or blockers. Epoxy is very susceptable to UV degradation and Yellowing or even clouding up.
Other than that..go for it.
Doug
Down in Texas where they produce some pretty nice stuff out of mesquite, which is full of voids/splits/cracks/knot holes they often use epoxy for filler. I've seen it used clear(sometimes imbeded with glitter and other objects) but most times they use a color such as black to tint the epoxy, looks good.
Doug
I agree with the other poster who said epoxy is good. And, I have also heard to tint it black.
Based on my childhood, I'd say the holes are for rolling marbles and nuts through -- leave 'em be.
Make a mdf jig for your router and cut the knots out. Then cut dutchmen to fit. Make them 3/8" thick. Lay your floor then go back and put in the patches.
Matt
Use west system epoxy, available at any marine supply store or online at West marine. Tinting it black will help as origionally posted by another.
carefully mix the epoxy thoroughly to avoid air bubbles. After you poor it into the holes/knots use a vibrating sander next to the areas to help bring the bubbles to the surface. This stuff will find any crack to bleed out from underneath, so seal the bottom of the knot with tape before you lay the boards.
I like epoxy, but I wouldn't tint it totally black. Even walnut knots are knot dead black. Woodworker's Supply has lots of tints...I usually like something of the dark chocolate flavor. I'd definitely mix up some samples first.
And, on big holes, put something like wadded up tape in the bottom, you can lose a lot through the back reliefs.
Whoever it is I wish they'd cut it out but when they will I can only guess.
They say I shot a man named Gray and took his wife to Italy,
She inherited a million bucks and when she died it came to me.
I can't help it if I'm lucky.
Thanks for the advice. I have a few scrap peices that I am testing to see how the results look. So far, the epoxy filling looks great. I am just a bit concerned about how well this will hold up 30-50 years from now. It is probably too hard to tell. I'll keep testing and see what I can come up with.
Thanks again,
Doug M.
Epoxy is pretty tough stuff as long as it doesn't get too much UV or get heated over about 500 degrees F. It is now bing used in hoods for the New Corvette. It has been used to secure heavy machinery to concrete pads and to secure steel pins in various materials. I would guess that it will hold up as well, or maybe better, than the wood.
West System has a special hardener to make an absolutely clear finish; I'd use that instead of the more common hardener. I can find a source if you have trouble locating it.
Sue