I am looking for sugggestions for dealing with a warped floor joist in an addition project I built recently. The joist are 2 x 10 spf with 3/4 t&g OSB glued and nailed. They span a 14 ft building width and sit on 2 x 6 plates. One of the joist in the middle decided to warp up about an inch. This is quite evident on top where the OSB splices on this joist twice ( 4 ft apart ) and the joints are buckeled open. My idea was to lag screw 2- 2 x 12 x 6 laid flat under the floor joist and try to pull them into line, amazingly the two joist on either side went up more than the warped one came down. Below this floor system is a crawl space so there is room to work. Thank you for any suggestions.
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Leave 1 of the joist next to the bowed. Cut the bowed joist from bottom to top(or v/v). Floor should br able to be pulled down now. Could put second new joist back up just for the heck of it, since you already have it.
Ward is mostly right...cut the warped/bowed just from the bottom up (you don't have to cut ALL the way through it), pull it into line, and sister another joist (a straight one) to it (one on either side if you care to). Nail it up good.
Thanks for the input. I was afraid the answers would suggest cutting the joist, I was trying to avoid that, but seeing how hard it is warped up it probably is the way to go. I forgot to mention that there is a heating trunk running down the center of the floor system which makes it impossible to sister another full length joist next to the cut one. So the next question is, after I cut this joist and pull it into plane how should I stabilize it?
One cut will reduce the crown by 75%. Try 14" x 6" x 8' steel with 12"bolts staggered 6" o.c..
"I forgot to mention that there is a heating trunk running down the center of the floor system which makes it impossible to sister another full length joist next to the cut one"
Seems to me that to address a structural issue such as this bowed joist, removing the heating trunk and then replacing the heating trunk isn't so completely far fetched. A pain in the arse to be sure, but...
I've never done it, but I don't know why couldn't be done.
Rich Beckman
Another day, another tool.
Can you set one of those acme 2 ton weights they show on the Road Runner cartoons on top of the hump. That might flatten it down.
Steve; Here's another suggestion: If you don't have your finished floor down, you can remove the subfloor from the top. Dig out the nails with a catspaw and cut out a strip about 12" wide over the offending joist.
Make sure all the nails are out of the joist and, using a little 3" portable electric plane, plane the crown out of the joist. (If you don't have one of these little planes, they're a good tool to have for tuning up framing and a million other things and aren't terribly expensive).
When the joist is where you want it, glue and screw backing strips or blocks to the underside of the subfloor and then replace the strip of subfloor you removed, screwing and gluing it to the backing and the now-flat joist. If your backing is fairly wide (6 or 8 inches) and of, say, 3/4" plywood, your subfloor should be as good as ever.
Now that's a good idea.__________________________________________
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Calvin is right, that is a good idea. I am going there today loaded with a bunch of tools, power planer included. Thanks to everyone for their input.