DD 6-8 year old Kenmore washer stopped working. Won’t go into spin cycle ( or wash I’m assuming). Motor grunts like its trying to start then kicks thermal breaker. After reset same thing.
I did pull back off and pump to check for easy rotation of armature, no problem. Does this sound like a transmission issue. Wonder if it’s worth it to fix before I go further? One thing I didn’t check is to see if pump was free, duh. Do they ever seize and lock up the works?
Washers aren’t my forte, any experts here?
Everything will be okay in the end. If it’s not okay, it’s not the end.
Replies
Not an expert... but
I have replaced a transmission.
And the seal while it was apart.
Ain't no fun.
Buy new next time.
A La Carte Government funding... the real democracy.
try here.
http://www.repairclinic.com/
to activate spin a different part of the washer is engaged. On my old kenmore, there was a pair of solenoid valves , mounted on a common plate, all sitting on a swivel pin.(This is all down under, on teh side of the transmission
Each solenoid was connected to a lever going into the ntransmission. the device is called a wigwag, they are cheap.
the coils on my used to burn out once in a while, cheap, easy to fix, you can validate 120 volt is at the coil connector, then pull on the linkage oen at a time while runnin, and it should start spinning.
google samuri appaliace, as well as appaliace repair form, lots of good reading.
Dave
Dave
replaced a gas flow valve from the samuri a while back ...
currently have a whole dryer "basket" sitting on top waiting to be installed sometime soon. We bought the W and D about 12 or so years ago ...
fixed the valve 2 yrs ago ... dryer works betetr than new.
the drum had the finish worn off in the back ... leave light marks on light clothes ... washes out the next time ... but a pain in the butt.
First fix cost around $30. The whole drum was a little over $100.
drys too good after the valve fix to consider throwing away. Once the new basket goes in I'm sure it'll run another coupla years ...
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Check the connection between the motor and tranny. There is a rubber bushing type connector that is held in place by a plastic part ( $20.00). This usually breaks down due to over loading. if that is the case........
Take the agitator cap off...undo nut. Put machine on side...undo electrical harness....pull motor/tranny...3 bolts....pull tranny...2 bolts...replace bushing....reverse procedure...40 mins tops...
I did have a pump seize up on me once. It was a washer that sat unused for quite a while. I think pumps have been known to eat one of those missing socks too.
I think pumps have been known to eat one of those missing socks too
Bang! You nailed it. DD has a one year old and sho 'nuff there was a wee sock jamming the pump. Impeller looked OK so I reassembled and it's good to go.
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
Some years ago a neighbor had abandoned a washer, with the over-the-phone diagnosis being a burned out motor and the estimated repair, with travel cost thrown in, being too high compared to having a new washer delivered. He let me wheelbarrow it over.I set it up in the yard, attached a garden hose, and tried it. Just a humming sound, and no agitation. I tipped it over, loosened the belt driving the works, and restarted. The motor was just fine. I hand-turned the pump about a half turn until it jammed.Upon opening the pump I found a 1/4" stone from his kid's pocket jammed inside. After removing the stone and straightening the bent pump shaft, the darn machine ran just fine. I told the neighbor, but he already had the replacement machine, told me to keep what I fixed. I think it's still running today in my sister's summer camp.Between that and the few times I've replaced solenoid valves or even just the rubber diaphrams in them, I've concluded that there aren't that many parts in a washing machine that are likely to go and can't be replaced easily. They're pretty rugged beasts.