This has to do with the waste line from my house to the street: I have a 4″ PVC waste line that exits the house underground and goes to the street along the side of my 200′ long driveway. Along the length of the pipe there are 5 clean outs sticking out of the ground all about 40′ apart from each other. They come straight up out of the ground and have a threaded cap obviously so I can get in there and unblock the pipe if needed. My question is this: each clean out pipe sticking up is a different height from the ground…the first is 14″, the next is 10″ then 22″, then 7″, and the last is only 3″. Is there any reason for them being staggered in height or was the plumber being a hack? The reason is, I want to cut them all down to 3-4″ so they’re not as ugly to look at.
Thanks, rusty
First Iraq, then France, then Hollywood!
Replies
There is no reason for them to be higher than flush with the ground, or at the most slightly higher than the ground level. Personally, I am surprised that you have that many cleanouts.
that many cleanouts tells me that the builder messed up on elevations when he poured the foundation and the sewer line does not have enough drop to it so the plumber provided for eventuallities. Since the builder was a hack, he may have not given the plumber accurate elevations to set the cleanouts at. Or he failed to provide any elevations and the plumber said, well, we can always come back later when we know and cut them down.
I might even consider placing them a few inches below the ground with a well to surrond them and cover so that the lawn mower doesn't find out what PVC tastes like..
Excellence is its own reward!
I don't think the builder was a hack since everything else with the house was done exceptionally well. I'd love to make them below ground, that's a great idea! I've seen those ground access covers at Lowes and maybe I'll do it that way. Thanks.
BTW, I've been here almost 2 years and never had to use one of those clean outs so I really hope you're wrong about the drain elevation being incorrect.
First Iraq, then France, then Hollywood!
> I'd love to make them below ground, that's a great idea! I've seen those ground access covers at Lowes and maybe I'll do it that way.
That's what I've done with mine. The plumber installed the c/o below grade and buried it. I bought one of those plastic "irrigation valve" boxes with the green cover and dug out the c/o and put the box over it. I also wrote "Sewer Cleanout" on the green cover with a black sharpie.
-- J.S.
I am sorry your plumber violated the codes like that. But you had a good solution.
That's exactly what I'll do this weekend.
so that the lawn mower doesn't find out what PVC tastes like.
Yeah, once they get that taste for petrochemicals, they'll start going for the vinyl siding and fences, even start jumping to get at the windows {G}_______________________
10 .... I have laid the foundation like an expert builder. Now others are building on it. But whoever is building on this foundation must be very careful.
11 For no one can lay any other foundation than the one we already have--Jesus Christ.
1 Corinthians 3:10-11
Mine never got addicted to PVC, but the only other source for it is some PVC conduit.
I just kept going over it until there was nothing left of the "lug" on the cap and then got the city to replace it with one with an alan socket.
The plumbing code specifies how high the cleanouts stick out. It doesn't say what height. It just says they cannot be the same length. So yours are right.
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Just kidding.
Seriously, here is what the code says. You must have a c/o every 100' as well as one right outside the house (or right inside). Also you must have a c/o when you change pipe direction 135 degrees. Example: If you have one 90 and then later one 45 then you must put a c/o there after the 45.
If you cut them below ground make sure the cap is sealed to prevent infiltration of surface water. I like to leave c/o 6" above ground so they are readily visible.
You got me on that one! I read it and said, "stupid damn codes" out loud then I scrolled down and read the rest.
I see you like them above ground, and that's understandable for easier access, but it's a real eye sore to us and the neighbors. I do have a clean out inside just before it leaves the house. I'd like to put them below ground as piffin suggested except maybe the first outside one that is hidden by a bush. Any suggestions on how to get a good square cut on 4" pipe below ground?
Thanks, rusty.
First Iraq, then France, then Hollywood!
I use a little tool that looks like a miniature saw blade on the end of a 6" shaft.
If you are glueing new c/o with plugs on there is no reason they HAVE to be perfectly square. There is no pressure there or anything like that and the glued on fitting will hide the crooked cut. I do try to make the cuts as square as possible anyways just because that is the right way to do things.
Thanks WHW.
First Iraq, then France, then Hollywood!
Rough cut with a saw. Any kind. A rope saw will give you what you are looking for. (rough / coarse wire w/ handels) A true square cut isn't too important. Just make it reasonable.
Slide the bucket over the stub, set to elevation, add the adaptor. Don't forget to put a little never seeze or grease on the plugs. At some point in time you will want to open your clean out.
Thanks IMERC. I have a rope saw so I'll use that. Is there any way to reuse the old adapters or is it just easier to buy new ones?
First Iraq, then France, then Hollywood!
Dig deeper. Use a coupling. More work. Less money.
Use a M180 to dig. Might get a mole or 6 in the process.
Wasn't looking to save any money if it was more work.
M180 would dig the whole fast, but may rupture the drain line. The shaped charge creates a hole in the ground to a depth of 6-9 feet and produces a 12-22 foot diameter crater. If they weren't so close to the neighbors property line, I'd order 5 of them from Amazon.com. Maybe just a thin line of C4 laid in a circle around the pipe?
I was thinking of making little C4 animals and putting them in the mole tunnels to give them something to play with. I think I've seen that done somewhere before with good results.
First Iraq, then France, then Hollywood!
We got the luan and stapler. Your neighbor should feel completely at ease.
Ah yes, the blast and shrapnel proof luan plywood. Isn't that what Super Mans cape was made of? I also heard from a credible source that the panels on the sides of the M1A1 are made from laminated luan plywood. They must be attached with staples, since they are the only thing that can penetrate it.
First Iraq, then France, then Hollywood!
"I was thinking of making little C4 animals and putting them in the mole tunnels to give them something to
play with. I think I've seen that done somewhere before with good results."
the movie "Caddy Shack" with Bill Murray.
Your whole thead on the mole thing brought up the visual of the gofer from Caddy Shack laughing at your efforts to get him.
"I'm allright! Nobody worry bout me!
You goin to give me a fight?
why don't you just let me be!"
Come on gang sing with meIf at first you don't succeed...try again! After that quit! No sense being a dam fool about it! W.C.Fields
"the movie "Caddy Shack" with Bill Murray."
Of course I knew that, just playing the part. Great movie I've seen 20+ times.
"Mmmm...it's a Baby Ruth..."
after you even the C/Os why not plant some shrubery around them to hide the heinous look you and your neighbor's detest.
Good idea, except they're along the side length of the drive way in the grassy part that separates my property from his and it's where all the snow goes in the winter when I plow. All that snow and ice and salt piling up on the shrubs would probably kill them. Plus, I think I'm going to put them below ground now so I can just drive over them with the mower like piffin suggested.
Thanks, rusty.
Photograph and measure (triangulate) each location for future reference when the snow covers it.
Also for anyone else reading this... code says c/o every 100'. Bad idea. Make it 100' MINUS the length of the riser MINUS about 6'. Since most drain cables are only 100' you will save the technician having to add a second drum of cable. They will appreciate your thoughtfulness and many times you will save money. Many drain cleaning companies have a fee for the first 100' and then an extra charge if they have to bring out the second drum.
Another great idea fromWHW. I'll do it.
I did not real all the messages so forgive me. As long as you know where they are you can have them below dirt grade, just cover with grass and dig up if needed. you might never need them.
Don't take this personal but that was bad advice my friend. Never bury any plumbing access, valve, etc. except corporation stops. (the valve on the water line right at the main. It is always buried.
Code requires all c/o to be readily accessable (sp?). That means you can cover them but the cover has to be very easy to take off. Like the cans with a green lid for sprinkler systems.
Roots and soil lines.... Oh joy!
Grrrrr!
You hit on a sore spot with me! LOL
I cannot get consistant answers on this from anyone. You need to get the approval from the electric company or inspector first. Than the gas company. If they are cool with it then the water is OK. Here the general rule is no gas and electric in the same trench. No phone and gas in the same trench. Sometimes I can put the water in with the electric. Sometimes not. Sewer is the same as water.
See, it is up to the utility what you can and can't do here in rural CO. And they have their heads where the sun don't shine most of the time.
The UPC does specify the separation of multiple lines in the same trench. A big no-no is clay sewer with water.
Have I confused you yet?
I thought you were up north.
When did you move to this county?
You forgot to add the annointed and appointed sub clause.
LMAO...
where ya at?
26 miles SW of Florissant, Colorado. 55 miles W of Colorado Springs. Teller County.
I am in the Montrose/Delta area.
Perhaps we are all wrongly assuming that these extensions were meant for cleanouts. I think the builder was just doing some planning ahead............for five outhouses, of course. ;)
Wiley, in this case DO NOT WORRY ABOUT CODE.
Whatever the code sez, your local inspector might want something else & the utility company will also have a different opinion.
If you are putting in new utilities, you gotta do it their way or they won't hook you up, code or no code.
Joe H
Exactly what I was trying to say. Good advice.
After going through this same issue and not getting clear code guidance, I let common sense take over, figuring what a hassle it would be for anyone in the future having to open the trench for ONE of the utilities, affecting the operation of all the others. So I figured out a way to run electric, water, and gas in separate trenches, but did compromise on phone line sharing a trench with the gas line.
you are scaring me...
So far, I don't feel like I'm dying so I guess that means I won't die.
Is that how the reasoning goes?
Excellence is its own reward!
With all due respect I think I better back off this topic. I have very strong opinions based on facts about gas lines. If I back off now we can still be friends. OK?