All,
I have just installed white oak floors throughout the entire bottom floor of my house. They have not been finished yet. 2 weeks ago during a driving rainstorm, water infiltrated around a stove exhaust vent where the caulk failed. Water ran down the wall and on top of the subfoor between the hardwood causing it to swell and cup in places (roughly 10 ft^2) Since then, I have repaired the point of infiltration and have been running a fan over the affected area to aid in drying.
The good news is that most of the affected area will be under the stove, but I am interested in soliciting advice on how to proceed. Can I expect the cupping to subside as the floor dries, or is it here to stay and should I just sand it down. Any advice is appreciated.
Dave
Replies
Dave.
Over time the cupping will go away, likely. Might take a longish period because in addition to the moisture that got in there is a lot of moisture caused by drying a new house. Be carefull not to allow dirt and dust to get between boards which is why I would hold off for a long time before sanding..
The fan is doing little.. do you have a dehumidifier? Can you heat the area? say increase the temp in that room by 5 or 10 degreees.. Don't paint or do anything else that will induce moisture into that room..
I agree with Frenchy except the fan issue they do a lot, as long as the moisture has a place to go, a cracked window say or ran with dehumidifier. When there is water damage to a house, burst pipe the first thing a clean up company does is get the water out and roll in 5' fans. Lumber companies when air drying lumber, stack it with one inch stickers between each layer and place a 5' fan on the length side. I would place 2 fans one blowing on top of the floor the other under if that area is unfinished. Wind does more to dry out potted outdoor plants the sun alone.Had a 1 1/2" cherry floor for a customer, dishwasher. put one on top, one in the basement let the thing blow for a week, only a few board show cupping to this day.Wallyo
I had a situation like that in a custom that I oversaw 13 years ago. Beautiful house, super nice people. The only scope on the house not mine was Kitchen cabs, counters, and appliances.
Kitchen installed by their sub, counters (granite, of course) installed. I swing by the job at the end of the day, checking things out, find that the counter installer only left 29-3/4 between counters for stove. (overhung cabs) Tell homeowner; they have counter guy return and re-do.
Appliance guys install appsliances. Me:"Do you want me to have my plumber hook up the ice-maker?"
Appliance guy: "Nah, we do these every day."
Finishes up, lock the house ,(it's a Friday afternoon) and at some point, the ice-maker fitting starts leaking, and leaks for the next 48 hours.
Long story short, the app. co's insurance paid me to rip out and replace 200 sq. ft of oak, but we waited it out at the advice of my flooring guy, and as bad as it was cupped after drying, it flattened out pretty much completely after a month or so, if memory serves. In your case, If any cupping remains after, a light screening and 1 coat of poly would straighten it out, I betcha.
PS just noticed yours not finished yet. I'd give em a month and proceed as usual...Bing
Edited 3/20/2008 9:43 pm ET by Bing187
Thanks for the reply. It has been almost two weeks and I can already see the cupping start to subside. I figure that it will take a while given there is not a lot of air exposed free surface area for the water to evaporate. It should take at least another two weeks for me to finish the cabinets, so I have the time
Dave