Water Heater electric hook up question
So I’m installing a replacement W/H and I didn’t look at the way the old W/H wires were hooked up before they took it away.
The dedicated W/H box on the wall which has two breakers in it has three wires, a red, black and a white. The meter says the red and black are about 119 volts each. The white, I’m assuming, must be the “common”. There is no green (ground) in this set of wires. The water heater has a built in elec. box on top that contains a red and a black as well as a green (ground) screw – no white wire. The instruction book never refers to a white (common) wire. The question is: Do I connect the white wire comming from the breaker box to the Ground screw on the W/H, or, do I just cap the white wire? Or, am I way off and need to do something entirely different?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Roy Turning
Replies
To keep up with the most recent NEC code, put green tape over 6" of the white wire ath the WH.
Now go to the box and put green tape on the white wire there also. If the 'box' you are talking about is not the main panel, tape all the white wires feeding the WH with green tape all the way back to the main box. The (NOW green) wire gets connected to the box and Wh ground.
now connect your (NOW green) wire to the green on the WH
BTW , be sure you have 240, measure BETWEEN the red and black, you should have 240V.
Go read the thread on should I pay this pump service call thread (or whatever it was called) for details on 120 V vs 240V.
Water heater electric follow-on question
I think I found that thread but it's over my pea brain. When you say "check BETWEEN the red and black for 240V" are you saying to twist them together and see if they read 240 volts on my meter? I did twist both the red and black together and with my meter probe on this twisted pair and the other probe on the white wire the double breaker made a pop sound. I figured that I wasn't supposed to do that and I just tested the red and black wires seperatly and each showed 119V.
Thanks,
Roy
He means connect one meter probe to the red and the other meter probe to the black. You should read around 240V between them.
Twisting red and black together creates a short circuit and is not a wise thing to do.
(And if you're not understanding this then maybe you should hire someone to take care of it.)
Two 110 to 240V Follow-on?
OK, I get your point and now I understand that one probe on each of the red and black wires needs to show 240V. What if it isn't close to 240? Where/what would need to be changed-out/fixed?
FYI, this house and it's 40 acres are two hours away in the boonies with no cell and/or land line plus a driveway that requires a 4-wheel. Getting a professional there is often difficult. We are trying to get it ready for an auction next month.
Thanks again,
Roy
If it isn't at least 200V you gotta hire someone.
Is there a way for the OP to determine if the white wire is already acting as a ground without him having to open the main panel? Given his, acknowledged, lack of experience, having him open the panel seems like not such a good idea.
Thanks for all the help.
Wen't back today and did the voltage test the correct way and it read 237V. Put in all new pipes, filled it and then hooked up the wires the way you guys said and it's working great, no leaks, no drips, no sparks. The hot shower was nice.
Did the green tape too.
Thanks again,
Roy
Did the green tape too
I was being a bit facetious when I mentioned the green tape.
What that does for you is IF you have a home inspector review the house before (if) you ever sell it, one less thing for them to write up.
That there wire dont care if it is chartreuse or even paisley, but them there bean counting code weeinies think it important so they can keep selling overpriced code books <G>
(in real life it is supposed to let sparkies know what the purpose of the wire is)
Might be time for another 'using old frayed extension cord for direct burial' thread?? Withe the frayed sections having the appropriate tape applied however <G>