How do you know when it’s time to replace the hot water heater? Mine is 9 y.o. natural gas 40 gal Rheem with hard water. A couple of obvious problems: It’s on an elevated platform in the garage, and the drain valve has been dripping for some time now, which has caused the osb platform to almost fail…it’s sagging badly. There is quite a bit of calcium deposits on the platform around the drain, and I can hear it circulating insoide the tank when it is heating, so I assume the eficiency is down. We still get plenty of hot water. Since I have to drain and remove the heater to replace the platform, and install a drip pan this time, I’m wondering if it would make sense to replace the whole heater.
Replies
Do you have enough room to store a water heater? If so, how about buying the replacement heater now, and just swap it in the instant the old one croaks?
-- J.S.
If you need to replace it, consider a tankless unit. You can mount it to the wall and forget about the platform.
Change SOMETHING NOW! This is an extremely dangerous situation! Scary!
Whether you change the WH is not my concern although it would be a good time. But get that platform fixed... and don't use OSB the next time.
BTW, there are a lot of drawbacks to installing a tankless unit as was suggested. Be sure you know the WHOLE story before you do that. And be aware of the costs like replacing the entire vent, most likely the entire gas line, etc.
And if anyone says you don't need to change the gas line RUN the other way unless they have done a complete gas line sizing for the entire house gas load.
Edited 3/31/2002 8:05:31 PM ET by Wet Head Warrior
The 'Calcium' stains indeed suggests you have hard water....a potential WH killer. Check to see if your WH has a sacraficial annode...a long rod that usually goes into the top of the tank. With water shut off and a little bit drained from the bottom, see if you can unscrew and remove the rod. If it is eaten away, this will suggest the inside of your tank is getting the same way. Also, look at the water you let out the valve at the bottom of the tank. If the water is brown or rusty looking, probably getting close to new tank time. The dribbling out the pressure relief is not usually, in my experience, a faulty valve....it suggests a relatively high water temp and frequent use (long showers, dish washer, washing machine, etc). If your house water pressure is already high (usually above 80 Lb/sq in), this suggests that you need an expansion tank for your hot water lines.
And be sure to use a metal or concrete block platform this time :-)
BruceM
You still have plenty of hot water, right?
Well, i'm going way out on a limb here and suggest you turn off the gas, drain the tank, and replace the drain valve, using pipe dope, not teflon tape. then slip a new piece of plywood under the tank so it's supported by whatever the deceased OSB was supported by--treat the disease, not just the symptom. If you want to get fancy, you can flush it before putting on the new valve by stirring the sediment inside with a stiff wire and opening the fill line, with a bucket to catch the gunk as it shoots out.
Fill, checks for leaks of water AND gas. Do this with a squirt bottle full of soapy water at the NG pipe joints; you'll see bubbles if you've got a leak due to the tank hanging there like a drunk on a lamp post. If satisfactory, light the pilot, then use the tank until it doesn't work anymore. Don't worry about storing a spare bec these aren't exacty rare items you need to special order. Hearing the water moving isn't a bad thing: it tends to do that when it gets hotter and rises.
Cost about $10. For everything else, there's Mastercard.
Most of all, do it now before you get blown to Kingdom Come or another equally distant Zip Code.
you're good!
The reason I may think about changing the WH is because the moving around often starts them to leaking.
Wet Head
Speaking of moving waterheaters, when they're transported from the supplier to the site, does it really matter if they're kept upright or laid on their side? I like to keep them upright because the instructions on the box typically say to do that. My guess is that it helps to protect the glass lining from cracking.
Does anyone have opinions on heat traps? I've seen the type with floating balls and I've seen the type with what appears to be a small neoprene flapper, both would seem to reduce the flow rate and I wonder if the flapper would last 10 years before breaking off and causing problems in a valve somewhere down stream. I've heard about heat traps made with loops of pipe but have also heard different recommendations for the size of those loops to be effective.
Any words of wisdom?
Mike S
Mike
It's O.k. to think out of the box, Just don't walk off of the plank!
The main reason to transport upright is that if you do it on the side it can put pressure on the side of the tank denting the jacket or worse.
I do not like to see internal heat raps for the very reasons you mentioned. If I would see one of the flapper type I would rip it out pronto!
Keep in mind too that factory installed drain valves on tanks are not made to be used. They certainly will not stand up to draining a few gallons a month from tank to reduce sediment build-up. I always replace factory valve with a short nipple (usually 3/4" diameter) and another valve. Then you will have something that will turn off after use.
"Normal" life of gas fired HW heater is 9-12 years (more for electric, of course). You are there, especially if sediment build-up is extensive.
Remember that the inside of that tank is covered with glass (molten to begin with, of course) and you don't want to dent it, thus possibly cracking the glass coating, and inviting rust and corrosion.
OSB support? We don't want no steenking OSB support! I don't recall the weight of a gallon of water (about 10 pounds) but you've got substantial weight (#400+) on a questionable platform. Get the job done before one of your kids gets hurt! Geez.
Some thoughts. Randy Rogers (not Raynchylde).
Edited 4/1/2002 4:00:07 PM ET by RAYNCHYLDE
Here's a few more questions, I'm not trying to hijack the tread but most are somewhat related to installing a waterheater.
1)So if the house piping is cpvc do you use cpvc ball valves on the cold and hot lines to the waterheater or do you use full port brass or bronze valves?
2)For 3/4" residential why would you select brass vs. bronze valves ?
3)I've seen ball valves with a ball port that are straight, nice and smooth on the interior, then I've see balls that are hollow, more like a empty sphere, besides possibly collecting sediment in parts of the sphere and introducing some small eddy currents and reducing flow a bit, is there a real practical difference in selecting one over the other?
4)On some metal ball valves I've seen tags warning something to the effect that "materials in this valve are hazardous to your heath" I don't know if it's refering to the metals used in the valve or the teflon used to seat the ball in or if it's a real threat, or if it's safer to use the cpvc valves, any comments?
Thanks to all,
Mike S
It's O.k. to think out of the box, Just don't walk off of the plank!
Edited 4/1/2002 6:22:40 PM ET by Mike S
Edited 4/1/2002 6:23:59 PM ET by Mike S
Randy,
Click on your own name. (In the gray area above this post.) In the java box that pops up, click on "my prefs". Then scroll down, and look for "Nickname". Whatever you type in that box, will be the name that appears at the top of your posts.
This will not change your login account name, but it will at least show Randy Rogers, (or whatever name you choose), on your posts, instead of RAYNCHYLDE.
Whattaya mean, I can't be three people at once ???!!?
It's good to see you back Luka
Mike
It's O.k. to think out of the box, Just don't walk off of the plank!
Edited 4/1/2002 8:45:34 PM ET by Mike S