I just bought a new 50 gal water heater to replace an older 40 gal model and when I went to pull the old one, I noticed the height will cause unexpected work.
The new heater is 15 inches taller then the one it replaces and to install it, I need to raise the vent opening where it enters the chimney about 2 inches (to keep a 1/4 in. per foot pitch to the vent pipe, plus a small margin). I can’t find a short 50 gal heater, plus the new one is already uncrated and sitting in the basement.
The existing vent has some new cement around it where it passes through the foundation wall and into the chimney, but I can’t see how much is above the vent where I need the room.
Question #1: Is raising the vent opening a reasonable task to undertake? I guess what I’m asking is how does one cut into the chimney, when all I see is the foundation wall from the basement. Will it be too thick to cut/drill?
Question #2: If I punt this and hire a plumber, is this going to drive them away?
Thanks,
Jim
Replies
It's doability depenbds on your willingness to work and whether you have (or have lusted after) a hammer drill.
Trying to do it without the right tool is an exercise in frustration.
Maybe this is a good excuse to get a decent quality hammer drill!
For DIY, $275 or so ought to get you a decent one.
If possible, keep the stack going up as much as possible directly above the water heater.
And be sure to maintain proper flue/combustible clearnaces: 1" for B-vent, 6" for single wall. This is very important for long term fire safety.
The key to forgiving others is to quit focusing on what they did to you, and start focusing on what God did for you. Max Lucado
Sojourners: Christians for Justice and Peace
Thanks.I pulled everything apart to see how far I have to go. It's a poured concrete foundation wall, then the chimney, clay liner.A hammer drill may come in handy after this...
Tjernlund Products, power vent it in to the flue
Some codes, if you have one, won't let you vent a gas appliance directly into a masonry chimney. The flue gases create acids(sulfuric I think) which attack the cement joints.
Edited 11/24/2004 11:16 pm ET by ARROWSHOOTER
CSIA Chimney Safety Institute of America has information and warnings about connecting appliances to masonry chimneys.
Needs to be done the right way for safety reasons.
I would post a link but I don't know how.
If you do choose to call in a Pro, ask him if He'll take your new water heater in trade for part of the bill. I've done this for customers in a bind. Another thought is to go buy a shorter unit ( called a squat ) and sell the other one in the local paper maybe?. Good luck....Gerry
http://www.csia.org/I believe that's Dale Feb's group (or a group he is very active in) and he is a very knowledgable guy.I believe they are more geared to wood burner issues than gas/oil appliances, though.I don't know about yours, but my church isn't a hotel for the holy, it's a hospital for sinners
Sojourners: Christians for Justice and Peace
Off the subject a little but how do you post the link ?
I use a windows machine (not mac)
I open a second instance of my browser, navigate to the site and double click in the web address at the top of the screen to highlight the complete web page address
I right click on the address, and select "Copy" from the drop down menu.
View Image
That copies the link into the clipboard, and I just paste it into the message box - Prospero recognizes it as a link and displays it that wayI don't know about yours, but my church isn't a hotel for the holy, it's a hospital for sinners
Sojourners: Christians for Justice and Peace
Edited 11/27/2004 5:43 pm ET by Bob Walker
http://forums.prospero.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?start=Start+Reading+%3E%3E
OK thats easy thanks
Install a power vent type. and vent it out a nearby wall/ window
OK I punted.After taking a third look, with a critical eye to moving the vent up, I noticed that the clay liner would also have to be trimmed and I felt that if I cracked it, other problems would soon come. I have no fear of working with wood, electrical, water, etc. but messing around with masonry and especially exhaust gasses was too much.I returned the 50 gal heater and puchased a 40 that is an exact replacement for my 40.When this one goes, I'll go for a tankless.Thanks to all.
Jim