I need to reduce water pressure to boilers and water heater. For this single family house, water comes in at 80 psi. For boilers, I need to reduce to around 12 psi and for the water heater, to about 60 psi. I always went to plumber’s store and bought Bell & Gossett brand, but its bronze dirt filters at the bottom don’t last 5 years, I believe. I did not clean the filter, but last one I changed had corroded and rotten filter. They don’t sell replacement filter. I ended up changing the whole regulator. I saw Watts brand at Home Depot and the box says it has stainless filters. How does Watts brand compare in quality and reliability to Bell & Gossett? If Watts is also trusted brand, is it all same in quality whether from Home Depot or from plumber’s store?
I like the better quality and the help I can get from plumber’s store, but the bronze filters don’t seem to last around here. I am in northeast New Jersey. Am I worrying over nothing? I see plenty of really old pressure regulators that were never cleaned.
Thank you in advance.
Replies
Ant chance you could make a ss filter, or eliminate the filter altogether and add a sediment filter?
http://www.filters4h2o.com/High%20Temperature%20Water%20Fillter%20Systems.html
Why reduce the water pressure for the Water?
And don't you run into a bunch of complications if you only reduce the source to the WH and not the cold water also.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I went to my plumbing wholesaler and asked for a regulator, and they sold me a Watts. Typically they only sell the good stuff, so I trust that it will be a good brand. Some manufacturers make lesser goods for the box stores, so beware.
If your water pressure is at or near 80lb. you need a pressure reducing valve on your incoming line to get the pressure down to 60-65 lbs., then you need an automatic feed to your boiler that will adjust the pressure to approx. 12lbs. If you don't want to service the valves they will all fail, luck.
"If all else fails, read the directions"
When was the last time the average PR valve was "serviced"?
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Thats the whole point of the statement, water heaters that are not flushed out, T+P valves that are not blown off, PRV valves that don't have the strainer cleaned out; [there should be one] so we blame the manufactor. Thats like blaming tire companies because you don't have enough air in your tires.....................................
"If all else fails, read the directions"
My point was simply that none of this stuff gets serviced in practice. The HO doesn't touch the stuff, and the only regular service that MIGHT occur in the house is for the furnace.And, when you look at what it would cost to have someone come in and do the service regularly, vs simply replacing parts as they fail (or rather, as the failures become obvious), the latter is almost certainly a winner.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
The only thing that I'm saying is if the homeowner read the directions with his system that the cost to maintain would be a lot less by doing it himself. I'm talking about the homeowner not doing his job. I have to stick with my post, sorry.
How many homeowners do you think are competent to do this sort of thing? Just the ER trips by people scalded from testing their T&P valves would outweigh any money saved.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
It seems like you don't have any confidence in the average person having the ability to do the most elemental service on their systems; I'm more positive that most DIYers with info. i.e. [directions] will have no problem. BTW most codes call for 120 deg. on water heater temperature, you can't get scalded. DanH, I'm done, I will not get into a pizzing contest. Luck......................................
"If all else fails, read the directions"
DIYers aren't average.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
"DIYers aren't average." you sucked me in!, explain your point!.
I don't have any stats on it, but just guessing I'd say that 20% of homeowners are harried single moms, another 20% are folks over 60, often frail and not inclined to do anything besides a little yardwork. Of the remaining 60% of nominally 2-adult, non-frail homes, in half neither adult would dare even trying to change a faucet cartridge, much less mess with that strange valve in the dark corner of the basement.So maybe a third of all homeowners would have the inclination and competence to clean the regulator screen. Of those you can figure less than half would know they needed to do it and only half of those (a quarter of a third) would actually get around to doing it on a timely schedule.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
another 20% are folks over 60
Now ya went and wizzed in my sand box, Dan (g).
No, actually, although over 60, as Gunner used to say I am a trained, or was that skilled , professional. I do this stuff for a living.
Dave
I am with David on the 60 bit.And at my advacned age not too many of my gray cells are still functioning.I am think that you will reach that age in 1-2 years.But I agree with your basic premise. There are lots of clueless people other there..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I grew up on the west coast and we had watts. Maybe it's a regional thing.
> I grew up on the west coast and we had watts. Maybe it's a regional thing.
Here in Los Angeles, I see mostly Watts and Wilkins, about an even split.
-- J.S.
But then they rioted.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Watts is a comprable valve as B&G. Around here Watts is the norm.
Now that you know you have a sediment problem just clean the trap in any brand PRV you get once a year. The ones that you have seen that have lasted for years without cleaning likely have had the sreen fliter completely corroded away. If you attempted to adjust the pressure on one of those old PRVs it probably woundn't work. Everything inside will be calcified with deposits and frozen in place.
Dave
Thank you to all for your advice and information. I am not a plumber, and I am just replacing what was installed before. Maybe the reducer for water heater was installed because the water heater was having problems, I even added a expansion tank because I was told that modern, insulated tanks have hotter water and the safety valve may leak. This was confirmed by my own experience. The fixtures in the house have no problems (such as banging), cold or hot. The boilers do have auto-feeders, it has a handle on top for manual feeding.
I will replace with B&G. I just can't trust HomeDepot for this kind of thing. For the cap that holds the sediment screen, how can I make the cap easier to remove next time? Should I use plumber's grease on threads? Electrician's anticorrosion compound? Teflon tape? Just don't tighten too much? Thank you again in advance.
Edited 7/30/2007 11:20 am ET by k1c
Description
Watts Water Pressure Reducing Valve Series 25AUB-Z3 3/4" (0069717)
Watts Water Pressure Reducing Valve Series 25AUB, Water Pressure Reducing Valves Sizes: 1 /2" to 2" (15 to 50 mm) With integral strainer Series 25AUB water pressure reducing valves are suitable for initial water pressures up to 300 psi (21.09 bar) and can be adjusted from 25 to 75 psi (172 to 517 kPa) delivery pressure to the system. The standard setting is 50 psi (345 kPa). They are standardly furnished with a bronze body, union threaded female inlet and female threaded outlet connection, stainless steel seat and strainer. All parts are easily and quickly serviceable without removing the valve from the line. The built-in by-pass prevents buildup of excessive system pressure caused by thermal expansion. A water saving test program concluded that reducing the supply presure from 80 to 50 psi (551 - 346 kPa) resulted in a water saving of 30%.
Watts Water Pressure Reducing Valve Series 25AUB-Z3 3/4" (0069717) Features: Union inlet connection, Integral stainless steel strainer, Renewable seat module, Bronze body construction, Serviceable in line, Bypass feature controls thermal expansion pressure, High temperature resistant reinforced diaphragm, for hot water.
Z-3 = Corrosion resistant adjusting and cage screws for waterworks pit installations
Details and Features
I put the Watts unit in my house 5 years ago. I set it at 50 PSI and it still keeps the water exactly at 50. I have a gauge before and after and the incoming water gets as high as 135 psi but usually it is around 100 psi.
It's a 3/4 inch unit, and cost me about $55 at Home Depot. I guess if it failed now I would have already gotten my moneys worth.
BTW, I had no idea that there was a screen to maintain in it, so it has not been serviced yet. This is the first place that I've lived that needed to have one. It didn't have any instructions with it, so this thread is the first that I've heard about this.
I do wonder now is if my screen is shot. There is a whole house filter installed after the pressure regulator, and it gets a fair amount of junk in it. If the screen is shot, does it really matter? The regulator has been doing it's job flawlessly.