I own a side by side duplex rental property which has full basements with two float-activated sump pumps . Due to record rainfall in our area, the Water table has risen to the basement floor elevation. this is causing both sump crocks to fill and then both sump pumps to run constantly 24/7. These basements are dry as I have refreshed gutter drops and backfilled the foundations.
Is there an alternative to bringing this footer drain water into the interior crocks? Is there a continuous feed pump which could be placed outside so that my tenants would not have to listen to constant water and pump activity?
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You could run the gutter off some distance to a drywell. Would have to be a pretty huge one unless you can tie it into some gravel layer. That would reduce the duty cycle on the pumps in the basement. Note, however, that constant noises are often less bothersome than intermittent ones.
Maybe construct a third sump OUTSIDE the foundation and position it significantly lower than the inside sumps. Then it would pump most of the water most of the time and be quieter for the tenants.
Are you asking if a pump could be located outside and suck from inside? Yes. Several types of pumps can do that, you need to look at their "dry lift" spec. X feet of dry lift is how far abvoe the water level it can self-prime, at sea level. Wet lift is how far down it can pump something once it is primed. A REALLY good pump (think Fire Engine Pumper truck) might have a dry lift of 20 feet or a bit more. A lot of centrifugal pumps can dry lift 5 or 10 feet.
A jet pump (used as a cheap way to pump from a small diameter well) could be located remotely and would have a ton of lift. But is less efficient than a centrifugal pump. Who's buying the kilowatt hours?
Any pump will need level switches in the sump(s) and a controller to turn it on and off to save it from running dry.
ive had this before. if you dont now submersible pumps will greatly reduce noise. under the lid add another lid of pink styrofoam. if you use galvinized pipe along with the 2 afore mentioned you will be hard pressed to hear it even standing near it.
you dont need galv for the whole run. just the main length and where you go through the wall.
There was a thread a while back about needing more sum pump capacity:
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=53124.1
You might find some useful info in there.
Running the exterior footing drains to en exterior sump pump might relieve some of the problem. Running them to daylight is always better, but obviously not always possible.
But why take a chance?
I have refreshed gutter downspouts and have new lines to near ditch. I also backfilled the property. The water level in the ditch equals the sump crock level.
"The water level in the ditch equals the sump crock level."
Ouch.
Any chance you could re-grade the ditch? Maybe clear out some downstream obstructions so the water gets downhill sooner?
That might help the water table a bit.
Champions take responsibility. When the ball is coming over the net, you can be sure I want the ball. [Billie Jean King]
It Gets worse: I believe that the lake that is just five lots away(i'm the first full basement ) has been boasting the lake level to make the lake look prettier (county lake). So I am fighting city hall so to speak. Today, i picked up two Topographic maps
and in 1967 the elevation of the lake was 1027 today it is 1028ft above sea level.
Just the one foot that i need to clear the crock. So the Soggie continues.
Thanks for your thoughts
Steve
You could have told that to start with . Youre gonna have to drain the lake !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Timothy
Yeah, drain the lake. But first double-check the area when it's raining and make sure there's ABSOLUTELY no standing water within at least 15-20 feet of the foundation. Talk to the authorities about that ditch, and get a peek at a topo map or do some gonzo surveying to see how close you really are to lake level ("impressions" can be deceiving).
There are quieter sump pumps. The submersible units are quieter and will last longer in this sort of situation. Also, look into sound-insulating the pipes.
If you install footing drains (are you sure you don't already have them?) you'll still have to pump the water, since a "drain to daylight" would apparently have to go to China. If this is an area that freezes, you'd need to have the pump inside anyway.
I am not sure who gonzo is but I did pickup two topograghis maps one 1967 and one current and the lake is a foot higher today. I am looking at a two foot section of cement pipe to extent the sump crock up and also rising the pump slightly.