Hello all,
I have a 10 year old water well system, that as of late keeps cycling very rapidly after drawing very little water. The system uses a Amtrol Well-X-Trol reserve/pressure tank, which I believe has an internal bladder.
My question is from what I have described, does it sound like the internal bladder has ruptured (it’s toast) and the Well-X-Trol needs to be replaced or can someone brighten my day? If the unit is rupured, is there anything I can do temporary to keep the pump from cycling until the well man comes to service/replace the tank?
Thanks for your help.
Replies
ONLY THING I COULD THINK OF THAT I WOULD CHECK WOULD BE THE BLADDER PRESSURE ON THE TOP OF MOST TANKS THERE IS A AIR VALVE LIKE ON A TIRE .
GET A AIR GAUAGE & CHECK IT I BELIEV IT SHOULD HAVE AS MUCH AIR IT AS THE LOWER LIMIT IS SET TO IF THERE IS NO AIR MORE THEN LIKLEY THE BLADDER AHS SHOT ITS LOAD . HOWEVER THERE ARE ALSO MANY OTHER AREAS TO CHECK WHEN TROUBLESHOOTING
Here's a page that explains things pretty well.
http://www.peekspump.com/tanks.htm
And here's more info.......
http://www.peekspump.com/dwspt.htm
Note that the bladder pressure should be two pounds less than the kick-in on the regulator switch and that this is checked with the tank completely drained. (Turn the pump off, of course) Add air with a tire pump or compressor until this reading is achieved.
Note also that you can confirm a ruptured bladder by turning the tank over and depressing the valve. Water would indicate bad bladder.
You may be able to limp by if a ruptured bladder is the culprit but there's no guarantee of this because the bladder may obstruct the flow of water from the tank. Depends.
I'm not sure this tank has a bladder. Try looking on the bottom of the tank where the water line likely enters. Do you see a large-ish round plate down there with numerous bolt heads around the perimeter? That would indicate a bladder tank. The lack of it would indicate a single compartment tank.