Anyone have any experience with Waterlox products?
Suitable for refinishing a soft pine floor?
Anyone have any experience with Waterlox products?
Suitable for refinishing a soft pine floor?
Learn how to plan, fabricate, and install a chute to conveniently send your dirty clothes from an upstairs bathroom or hallway to your laundry room below.
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Replies
OK, so I'm a DIY homeowner. However, it has worked out very well for me.
We put down wide pine (8" to 18") in our kitchen six years ago. I used Waterlox. Five coats over a stain that we used to match the existing antique pine in an adjoining room. Last spring I added two new coats.
The reasons I prefer it over poly are:
1. Easy refinish for spots or entire floor - when I recoated last spring, my prep entailed washing the floor and then wiping it w/ mineral spirits. The application is simple and bubbles are almost non-existant. Try that w/ poly.
2. It doesn't chip or scratch off like poly when used on pine. When we had our upstairs floors redone(antique wide pine), the finisher insisted that poly would be great so we went with his recommendation. Within weeks our dog had scratched/chipped several areas. This has never been a problem in the higher-traffic kitchen area. Pine will easily dent and the waterlox handles this much better.
3. Appearance - it just looks better and more appropriate in an application where the wide pine look is desired (obviously this is more subjective.)
The downside to waterlox is the lack of familiarity with the product (see #2 above) and its off-gassing - takes a week to clear the smell so take this into consideration. Also, I would prefer poly for hard wood floors.
-Lee
Edited 11/30/2004 8:02 am ET by LEE_ORMISTON
Waterlox is great for hand rubbed wood furniture!
Good depth of color and grain with minimal build up.
Durable and readily recoated.
Never used it on a floor. But by the #2 posting, its sounds okay! Might check waterlox's website for details.
Although I see it advertised in FHB & FWW, waterlox hasn't been on local shelves for about 15 years.
Down side....it does not last long in the can after opening....jellies up!
.................Iron Helix
I decided on Waterlox mid-stream, after already priming with de-waxed shellac. I think that did affect the need for Waterlox to penetrate the wood fibers to be a really effective coating. Mine off-gassed for way more than a week, and ended up softer, I think, than it would have without the shellac priming. I would use it again, but skip the shellac!
imho, a great choice for a pine floor for the the reasons mentioned in previous posts. It would be my first choice for a pine floor. I worked on a resteraunt (steakhouse) project where the floors were SYP and Waterlox- lots and lots of foot traffic. Went back a year later and was amazed how well the finish held up. More labor intensive to apply but I think you'll be happier over the long run than with a poly finish.
Search the archives, too. This has come up lots before. I used it and like it.
I post this in every Waterlox thread.
The can says that it dries overnight or so. But the website says that it takes seven days to cure.
After it is dry, light traffic in clean stocking feet is ok, but it will really pick up dirt in the first few days. I think some have posted the idea of putting a paper runner down, but pick it up for overnight, the curing finish needs oxygen. Seems like I read that a fan moving air in the room is helpful.
Once the week is up, it is really nice.
Rich Beckman
Another day, another tool.