For the interior shelves and drawers of a built in, I’m spraying shellac and was going to leave that as the final finish. I’m using the Zinser 100% wax free, which seems to be ment more as an undercoat than anything. Can I use that as the final coat too, or do I have to use the stuff with wax in it?
(For the doors, I’ll be using poly over the wax free shellac.)
Tu stultus es
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
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Either is fine.
Btw, a coat of paste wax over either is the final finish step.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"
Jed Clampitt
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Is it required or optional? - these are just going to see the underside of towels and boxes for a long time.
Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
Optional, but shellac can get a bit sticky or gummy when hot and humid, and waxing also removes the lil nits and imperfections. I do everything with wax after just outta habit.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Thanks!
Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
Dewaxed is what you want if you are going to put poly on top. Waxed may affect the bond. Factoid: dewaxed has better water resistance.
When you say "Paste Wax", do you mean like Turtle wax? Or is there something different? How long do you wait before waxing, and do you sand it first?
Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
You can find stuff sold as "paste wax" at the hardware store. I think turtle wax would probably work, although I believe it has a higher concentration of the "harder" waxes. This can make it a little tougher to buff by hand. The easy way to finish off a small project is to wax and smooth at the same time. Get some 0000 steel wool, dip/rub it into some of the wax, and "polish" the surface with it. It helps to have some mineral spirits to dilute the wax a little (pre mix wax and min. spirits until about as thick as honey). Rub with the grain to help your scratch marks blend in. Stop every now and then, wipe off the excess wax with an old T-shirt or some of those blue shop towels, let the surface dry out and then look at it under a glancing (i.e. light is reflecting off the surface at an angle, so you can see any little shadow lines on your near smooth surface) light and decide if you want to stop or keep going. Don't rub too much, or you'll cut through the finish back to bare wood. Trust me, you'll know that's happened when you see it... You're basically just trying to evenly scratch the entire surface, knocking off the nubs while you're doing so.Much longer to describe than to do.-t
That boy is gonna have some slick shelves and draws, ya know?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Well, I hone my skills on something that I won't see very often, so I've already made the dozen mistakes before I get to something I can show off!
Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
How come Frenchy hasn't posted here yet?
Hah! Reminds me of the first time I built a set of English style "piston fit" drawers in a small jewelry box.I finished the final fitting on the last one, waxed them all up real nice, put all four drawers in and then pulled one halfway out... SUCK! The vacuum drew the other three drawers into the chest just as neat and tight as could be. Wow, what a craftyman I am!Shows over... slammed the drawer back in... THUNK, THUNK, THUNK! All three drawers spit out like watermelon seeds, off the bench, onto the shop floor... DOH!I drilled holes in the carcase afterwards - live and learn...-t
LMao...
btdt
Tansue chests und rer my stairs, relativity of vacuume and spacial displacement of rectangular shapes.
Hence my SPHERE moniker and bis trade mark, I have a lot of surface area, but I take up the least space.
You and I hit logger heads on a subject once, but I'm impressed we walked it out.
Cross l linking co poly mers in a non volital transit medium.....ahhh, I 'd rathe r chase tang.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Pretty much exactly as Ted said.
Now, I'm a nut I use bees wax that has been shaved and soaked in MS or turp. Until it's a cream. I also use 4/0 steel wool or maroon scrubbie to apply.
I don't like car waxes until the end, like Maquires Mirror Glaze, some have silicone and can be a problem.
Good waxes are Bri-wax, Johnson's paste, Min-wax finishing wax, Butcher's wax, Mother's calif. gold and bowling ally wax under many names.
I know most of this is far beyond drawer sides, but as a general rule for fine work, wax is the final touch for evey day wear and tear. Easy to repair vs. a complete refin.
I have a hot applied wax of carnuba with some lamp black added I use on wood instruments, just enough pigment to fill any really small pits in the finish,,,,,but I can't tell ya, its my secret.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Minwax makes a wood paste wax. Who'd a thunk it with a name like Minwax.
Yep. Even labeled as finishing wax. Soft as a rule , but better than none.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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