Hi,
I need to set some capstones on top of columns. These stones will have a light on them so I need to have the cable connections accessible, which will be housed in the column. I need the mortar for leveling purposes but I also need it to be easy to remove the capstone if needed.
All help appreciated,
Mike
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I've put lights on top of capstones by using a hole in the capstone as electrical box. Then the lamp's base covers the hole. Holes are either made or come in the form of electrical boxes.
Thanks,
The lights I have are actually a low voltage path light. They don't have a base, just a 6" long conduit. I'm casting the capstone myself so I have the hole in place, conduit is a tight fit and when caulked in place is quite secure.
Mike
Why not just caulk the cap stone on?
Or, a pipe flange works beautifully for such beasts.
3 parts lime... 3 parts sand... one part portland...
will look and act like mortar... but if you need to remove the cap it should be no problem... what you might do also is leave one void to get a wedge in... maybe a 1.5" wide by 1/2" thick foam piece... that way you can tap in a wood wedge into the foam and break the bond
p
If you want to use the mortar as a leveling bed but don't want it to bond to the cap stone, use any basic mortar. Type N masonry cement mixed to three parts sand would be fine. Before you set the cap stone, rub the bottom with parafin wax to keep it from bonding. Any irregularities in the bottom of the cap stone plus gravity will hold it in place and it will be easy to remove later.
I was thinking about the same except line the joint with wax paper, then lift off to peel the paper after it cured. Your way is one step less work
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Thanks for the good tips.
Mike
The paraffin will negate all bond. I should think you'd
want it to have a little. My approach would be to set the cap as normal, and let it set up.
Maybe the end of the day or so pop it loose. Then caulk it in place. It will look like a standard joint but be removable.
Thanks,
yes, this is exactly what I was thinking.
mike
Exactly what piffin wrote.
I've wrapped the caps in plastic wrap, like saran wrap.
I've laid a bed of mortar, set and leveled the cap. Tool the joint. Come back later and pop off the cap, unwrap it, and reset it.
If you need to stabilize the cap of prevent water intrusion, then apply a thin bead of caulk prior to resetting the stone, so the bead gets compressed between the stone and the mortar.
Easy.
For removal and replacement, I mark the bottom of the cap in some way so it's easy to reset it in the same orientation as it was when originally installed.