Hello all,
We have a leak at our water meter/main shut-off. I was hoping it was the city’s responsibility, but they are saying it is mine. It appears that it is leaking where the valve stem for the main shutoff enters the valve body, if that makes sense… I’ve attached a picture of the valve as it sits, with the handle removed.
Is there a way I can tighten this without having to replace the whole valve? There is pretty limited working space in there, plus I hate working on plumbing…. but it’s also really not in the budget right now to pay for a plumber… I need to meet someone I can trade work with.
Ideas?
Thanks,
– Kit Camp
Replies
Which side of the meter is that valve on?
Here, the valve is on the supply side, which, as well as the meter, belongs to the city.
I can't tell from your post, Kit, is the valve leaking on the side water goes into it, or where it comes out? Street side or house side?
Well if it was upstream of the meter that would be money for the water company to lose, so they would have fixed it immediately.
That happens to be a valve that I am not familiar with.
If there is a bonnet on it that is leaking then it should unscrew & be able to replace the bonnet packing which is available at most hardware stores.
Is there a valve on the other side of the meter as well?
Hi guys,My email notification is apparently not working... The valve is on the house side of the meter, hence the responsibility falling to me. Our water bill has gone up quite a bit during the last two billing cycles, I think this may be the culprit.Jim-It appears to be leaking where the "stem" screws into the body of the valve. (Don't really know if my terminology is right.) I removed the handle, which sits down over the square part visible in the photo. It is a steady drip, enough to fill the whole box overnight.Bill- There is also a small shutoff on the street side. Can I some type of wrench on that square valve stem? I wondered if I could put some kind of extension on it so as to get a bigger wrench on it. Should I be able to back that thing out? (One of my other problems is getting in there to do anything.) - KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
Can I some type of wrench on that square valve stem?
Yup, a basin wrench comes in handy for that.
Also a large 12pt socket does well on grabbing square drives.
now ya tell me....
do I toss my 8pts???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Yup, toss them right over my way, cause the ones that the 12 point don't fit the 8's usually do.
thought so...
catch....
another...
ever seen readily available 1.5 and 2" chromed sch40 iron pipe???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Nope, most of the chrome pipe we see is dipped brass.
thought so....
found sleeves but that doesn't do much for the fittings....
thanks for the time...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Good. I have a 1/2" drive set with some extensions. Hopefully that should do the job. I couldn't budge that thing with the brass handle.I have another shut-off up at the house.We never noticed it was leaking because it was pretty overgrown with grass, which we have dug/torn out over the last few days.Thanks for the info, Bill.I'll try it tomorrow and let you boys know how it goes.- KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
Looks like coupling colars on either side of that puppy.
Why not just uncouple it and take it to the bench?
Union nut on the meter side & threaded on the other, is what it appears to me & ironhelix.
If it was mine I would undo the meter union & unscrew the valve & replace.
Thought so.
Me to.
FWIW...........
The valves that have the appearance of what is in your photo, in my experience, are brass to brass stems with a tightening nut at the base of the valve. The valves are full flow and are closed with 1/4 turn. There is a half union on the meter side of the valve and a hex female threaded pipe fitting to the house side.
There will be little or no "packing" or a crown/packing nut on this style of valve. But this type of valve uses "plumbers valve grease as a sealant" and flat nut and washer on the bottom of the valve stem that can be tightened to wedge the cone shaped stem tighter into the valve body.
Try this first....bail out the water, feel or look at the bottom of the valve body for a small hex nut, take an 8" crescent wrench and lightly tighten that nut. Watch and see if your drip is reduced. Repeat if necessary, but do not apply great force to that nut.
Make sure the valve still operates after your tightening.
If that fails, turn the water off at the city's valve and loosen the 1/2 union on your walve, then hold the water line with a pipe wrench and use a crescent wrench to remove the valve. Replace the valve with a duplicate...if you are lucky enough to find one....ot take the nut off the stem and disassemble the valve.
Clean the old valve grease away, check for wear or corrosion, regrease with plumbers valve grease, repace any worn packing/washers at the nut. Re-install and HOPE!
You can, if the confines of the meter box allow, to remove the valve core while the valve is in-line and the city's valve is closed.
Parts, pieces, grease, or a replacement will be more like to be found at a commercial plumbing or meter supply house rather than a"big box" or local hardware store. Your city water department (the actual hands-on men--not the office) may also be of assistance and may even have a valve replacement to sell you.
Good luck with PITA problem..............Iron Helix
PS...there is a pipe wrench with an offset head that may allow you to work better in the valve box. An expensive "one-time" tool for you, but the city boys will have one in thier trucks. Small towns have more "down -home" service...so I could borrow the tool....but I don't know about your situation!
Edited 6/3/2008 6:34 am by IronHelix
If the valve's been leaking for some time I would expect it's sealing surfaces are eroded and it will need to be replaced.
It is an ironic habit of human beings to run faster when we have lost our way. --Rollo May
Sure enough!....Repair or replace is an on-site call!
As far as total removal...it looks as if the valve/meter/valve assembly was the spec by the utility. The utility may still want the house side valve to service the meter without the possibility of contaminating the line to the house if the meterbox floods.
And it may be an outdated/passe' service set-up..ask the utility provider.
...............Iron Helix
If you take a large crescent wrench and put it on the vertical(then another on the horizontal to turn it) on the square city side to shut off the water.
If you have a good city side shut off why do you need a house side at the meter?
86 the valve and but a nipple or 2 and union in and be done with it.
Be careful turning the city side valve, some have 180 stop so if you can't turn it you may be up to the stop. Go further and you'll blow the valve.
Hots on the left,colds on the right,Shizz don't flow up hill and paydays on Friday? Now where are the instructions to which way the valve turns.