I just finished remodeling a small ranch style house with a full unfinished basement. When I bought the house, there was no sign of water seepage. We had a pretty dry Spring, so while we were working, the basement stayed dry. But now, for the past few weeks we’ve been having very heavy rain and water has been seeping in at the bottom of the walls. It seems that the ground is saturated and every time we have a heavy rain, the ground water level rises and water finds its way into the basement.
Because the seepage is only at the base of the perimeter walls, I thought about using a baseboard style water diverting channel system, but the only one I could find runs about $10.00 per lineal foot (material only). I’ve got about 120 lineal feet, so that gets pretty expensive.
I then thought since I’d have to install a sump pit and sump pump any way, maybe I should cut the floor and install drain tile along perimeter walls instead. This would be much more labor intensive but it seems to be a more permanent fix. Also material is alot cheaper.
I would really appreciate any thoughts, comments, or alternative ideas.
Thanks!
Replies
I hope you've already paid attention to getting all runoff away from your foundation as fast as possible.
Then, assuming you're not sitting on a spring, the choices are inside patch or outside fix. I've never used the baseboard method, but I know the sump system works, until the pump dies and you didn't notice. Then you have an indoor pool. Neither is what I'd do although both are a lot cheaper than fixing the outside and re-landscaping.
Good luck.
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
VaTom is right on when he says it needs to be dealt with on the outside first. Surface drainage is the place to start, but is also the place most people don't want to deal with - They don't want to make a mess of their yard, landscaping, etc.
If you absolutely can't stand to mess up the yard, I'd suggest putting the sump pit and pump in first. I did that once in a house with a REALLY wet basement, and it helped. All it did was pump some of the excess water out and drop the water table a bit, but it helped.
The water diverting channels you mention at $1,200 doesn't seem all that bad to me, compared to busting up concrete and putting in drain tile. But it still doesn't fix the problem - It just treats the symptoms.
Mary had a little lamb, the doctor was surprised;
but when Old MacDonald had a farm, the doctor nearly died.
Thanks for the input guys.
Run off from the roof was the first thing we took care of. Also, grade slopes away from the house on all 4 sides. There is actually a concrete driveway up against the house on one side which is sloped and runs rain water about 12 feet away.
As far as the baseboard, water diverting system, I didn't mean to sound like $1200 is a whole lot of money to correct this problem. I just feel that $10 per lineal foot is a lot to pay for a piece of extruded vinyl (probably less than 10 cents/lf to produce), which, as one of you guys mentioned, is a treatment for the symptom rather than a cure for the problem.
I think you may have a point as far as slightly lowering the water tabe so I'll start with the sump pit and pump, and add the drain tile if needed.
Thanks again for the help.
There is a really cool Swedish(I think) system that I found in an old Scientific American or suchlike mag...maybe last year. From what I remember (I looked into it 'cause my basement is concrete block, 1926, and I have seepage issues too), it is a box that runs on electricity but has low power usage. There is an electrode(or something similar) that is attached to the box by wires but you plant this thing outside the house/basement at some distance. When the box is turned on the water is somehow pulled out of the walls/floor to the electrode outside the house.
I know this is sounding crazy but I found the website and they actually used a military bunker that was 20ft below grade and consistently had puddles on the floor to test out this equipment. The moisture in the bunker dropped dramatically. I'll see if I can find the email I sent my brother about this.
Edited to add: Can't find the darn email but I do remember I was sitting in the waiting room at Sear's, either for Michelin tires or battery for my Volksie. And I think it was either Discover mag('cause there was a dinosaur on the cover) or Popular Mechanics. Probably Popular Mechanics. This is gonna drive me nuts...I'm googling to see if I can pick anything up.
Life is too short so eat dessert first, especially if it happens to be Cookingmonster's triple cinnamon truffles or her ginger-fig caramels.
Edited 7/12/2003 1:57:22 PM ET by PLANTLUST
Does Electrostatic Dehumidification Technology sound feasible?
Still checking.Life is too short so eat dessert first, especially if it happens to be Cookingmonster's triple cinnamon truffles or her ginger-fig caramels.
If there is a layer of gravel under the slab to allow water to migrate to the sump, a sump pump might do the trick. Perhaps a second pump would help more if you have a large area. As you said, you need a pump for any interior system, so this might be a good thing to try first. Don't forget the check valve.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
If you put in a sump pump, get one with a high water alarm system. Basically it is a second float set at some level above the float that brings the pump on. It is hooked to a loud horn or bell alarm. If the pump fails and the water reaches the second level, the alarm sounds. Some have battery backups for power failures. Cost a little more, but beats trying to collect from your home owners policy.
Dave
Thanks for the tips.
Adding a second pump before adding drain tile sounds like a good idea.
Also, the high water level alarm is definitely a must.
Thanks again and feel free to keep the tips coming.
I just saw this in the Permanent Buildings and Foundations E-mail Newsletter:
New Method Reduces Moisture Infiltration in HomesA low-energy method of stopping moisture in the ground from entering a structure through sub-grade concrete and masonry structures is electro-osmotic de-moisturizing, or EODM, technology. Through its technology scanning efforts, PATH has identified this technology, which combines the use of low-frequency radio waves to neutralize the electrical charges that allow capillary action to occur. By combining these radio waves with the natural properties of the earth, water, and masonry, the technology impedes the intrusion of ground moisture into masonry and creates a virtual electronic shield around a building to keep moisture out. The system does not employ chemicals, is minimally invasive, and is not limited by a structure's size or use. The method has been demonstrated, tested, and used successfully in over 2,500 installations across a broad range of European and North American applications. The energy-efficient technology consumes about the same power as a 100-watt light bulb. It reduces maintenance and repairing costs. Additionally, it prevents damage to building contents from moisture and mold, damage to wiring, piping, and other equipment from corrosion, and discoloration and damage to masonry walls that result from mineralization and efflorescence. For more detail on EODM technology, visit http://www.pathnet.org/sp.asp?id=9109.
Let us know if you learn anything about it.
Bless you, bless you.
I know I wasn't going crazy and had seen something like this in a science-type mag.
Edited to add: They've really improved the technology from what I had previously read. Check out the following background and tech details...available at a place in Wisconsin. Woo hoo!! The hotbed of new technology.
http://www.moisture-solutions.com/technical.asp
Life is too short so eat dessert first, especially if it happens to be Cookingmonster's triple cinnamon truffles or her ginger-fig caramels.
Edited 7/13/2003 10:49:30 PM ET by PLANTLUST
EODM
Well as the owner of a very wet basement I tried to find some info on the above but the pathnet link is broken and I've googled it to no avail ... I'm thinking it must be a crock ...
Well, the thread is eight years old. Links don't last forever.