Replies

1. 
   Dave_Day | Mar 12, 2001 01:23am | #1

   *
   Minwax stain sealer

1. 
   pat_white | Mar 12, 2001 04:17am | #2

   *Minwax wood conditioner

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   Qtrmeg_ | Mar 12, 2001 03:48pm | #3

   *Or Minwax Natural stain, my choice if I were going to stain over and was worried about the grains taking stain with too must contrast.But if your floors are blotchy, are you sure they aren't water stained, or something?

1. 
   Steve_G | Mar 13, 2001 02:32am | #4

   *kevin, you need a toner. You can make your own by cutting shellac with 4 parts alcohol to 1 part shellac, or buy toner at the paint store. Whatever you do make sure it is compatable with your floor finish.Good luck,steve

1. 
   Kevin_Gent | Mar 13, 2001 06:57pm | #5

   *We use a product called Benite. It is a prestain stabilizer that prevents the stain from blotching in decidious woods like pine and fir. Here in the Pacific Northwest, we have to deal with this problem everyday, and I have found that this soloution works best for evening out stain color. Using a good quality gel stain also is effective, as it limits stain penetration. Gel stain is best suited to smaller projects, such as doors and casework. I don't like using it on large planes, like paneling or floors. Good luck!!

2. 
   Greg_Dixon | Mar 14, 2001 02:02am | #6

   *Kevin, I'm with Steve. Whenever I make a new table I always start with clear denatured alcohol then start adding shellack flakes to it sanding in between. I stop early if I'm going to stain, But if I'm going to finish brite (like varnish or Shellac and wax, or even just wax) I'll keep adding shellac and sanding and recoating till I get the surface right. For a floor you don't need to be so detailed. Find some blond shellac flakes. Good wodworking stores sell this. WOODCRAFT also sells it. Not that WOODCRAFT is not a good woodworking store. The point is you might find shellac flakes without mail order. In any case, You mix the dry flakes with denatured alcohol untill you get the "stickyness" you want. All I can describe to you without showing you is that you want about "medium sticky". Shellac flakes are very light. What you could put into a pint jar would make about a half gallon of "medium sticky" shellac. Again you need to experiment to get the "sticky" you are looking for. The shellac works like this. The denatured alcolhol part of it tightens the grain. The shellac left behind after the alcohol has evapoated seals the grain. The alcohol is a carryer for the shellac. this is why is is better ti mix your own. You have more control over how much shellac gets in. The coolest thing is that shellac is non toxic and mixes with oil based finishes really well. I can't say for sure about water based finishes. I think so. I can check. I have only used varnish or wax after shellac.

3. 
   Qtrmeg_ | Mar 15, 2001 02:31pm | #7

   *I wouldn't want to use any product with a hard finish for this job, no matter how you thin it. I would simply coat the wood with natural stain, let it sit a bit and wipe up the excess; sort of like 2 coats, wet on wet. Fast, simple, inexpensive, perfect compatibility with the stain, and no danger of leaving finish built-up on the areas with less porous grain. Don't forget that you still have some control of the stain penetration when you actually "stain", and I would be inclined to re-stain after a couple of hours rather than the next day.Someone please explain why this wouldn't work.

4. 
   Darrell_Hambley_PE | Mar 15, 2001 07:35pm | #8

   *I'd go with Kevins idea, Benite. Advice about Benite: Don't use old Benite. Dispose of it. Once it's opened it reacts with the air somehow and you have to use it now.

2. 
   kelvin_potter | Mar 15, 2001 07:35pm | #9

   *
   I've heard of using glue thinned with water on furniture to keep the grain from absorbing to much stain. I've installed these yellow pine floors before with out pretreatement and they were blotchy. Home Depot has a sanding sealer by Varithane. Is this what i want? Theres another by Parks profinisher that is water based. I'm planning on using oil based poly topcoats, can i use a water based sealer? What should i do? Thanks in advance,
   Kelvin