*
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Listeners write in about haunted pipes and building-science tomes, and they ask questions about roof venting and roof leaks.
Featured Video
SawStop's Portable Tablesaw is Bigger and Better Than BeforeHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
ags, you might want to start by attacking the SOURCE of the problem ... the washing machine itself. Consider one of the "new" front-loading machines. They cost a bit more, but do save on water and detergent, and most importantly, run quietly and vibration-free. I'll bet the cost differential of a front-loader will be less than that of any meaningful noise/vibration solutions, and the client will be grateful for your suggestion. Don't forget a drain pan with a drain line or some provision for leaks or overflow.
Good luck, Steve
*I'm not sure what you mean by "isolate". but.......Put the washer /dryer in their own closet with bifold doors. Make sure the doors are the easy off kind so if you have to drag the machines out , you can pop the door and get them out. 2d: make sure you know ALL the dimensions before you frame it. If they're side-side, you can USUALLY get them in a 5' bifold door opening. The depth has to be about 5" deeper than the dryer because of the vent connection. Use a wall recess mount for the drain & water supply. Try to get the kind with the quick lever-off ball valve type so the homeowner will be encouraged to turn off the water when they are not using them or at least when they go on trips. If they are the stacking type, double check the dimensions and be generous. You've got to be able to close the door so they will look good, and you can reduce some of the noise with the doors closed. There is plenty of air moving around a bi-fold door, but if you use a hinge door, cut the bottom to let the air move in for the dryer.The "PAN" is problematical because you can't put the washer in a pan because you can't get it in and out. You also can't put a regular drain in the floor because the drain will not have a trap, or if it does have a trap, you can't keep water in the trap (it will evaporate). If you don't have water in the trap, you will get sewer gas .If you use a drain it has to dump to some other place besides the house sewer line...like maybe pipe it direct to the basement and let it dump into a floor drain or to the outside. It is only an emergency drain anyway.A good solution is to use a vinyl floor with a vinyl base or a ceramic sanitary cove base. Pay special attention to caulking to give the floor the ability to hold some water.The best prevention is to change the supply hoses to some of the braided stainless steel. Make sure the dryer vent has a good run and can be cleaned out, a lot of lint bypasses the filter and gets into the vent duct. Explain to the Owner the risk of fire if they don't clean the lint filter after every load.Some of our 2d floor installations have been in place since 1980 with no damage and lots of praise from the homeowner for the convenience.The washer/dryer's on the second floor IS EXACTLY WHERE THEY BELONG. (or actually they belong next to the bedrooms) because the bedrooms are where 90% of the laundry comes from and goes to.
*Check out this web site. It might be what you are looking for..www.floodsaver.comVince
*