Yester day I was putting in a three piece vanity in a master bath.
1 taller vanity with a sink-top and shorter drawer base and single “pencil” drawer on the side to support a lower top with a place to sit under.
The bases came out ~3/8″ short of the wall.
But there will be tile so the gap may end up acceptable, or i can make a filler from extra toe-kick cover.
But the top for the sitting area is 1″ to 1″-1/4 short!!
I say Order a new top or some side splashes to fill up the space.
Job/manager & Kit/Bath designer come up with moving every thing over 7/8″ and balacing all the gaps and caulking.
This will require redrilling pie holes in sink base and adding a filler at the end I have Tight to a wall already.
I will try to draw a pic foir you guy/gals.
Man this really takesthe wind from your sails!!!
Mr T
Do not try this at home!
I am an Experienced Professional!
Replies
IMO, anything other than a new top is going to look second rate. The top is too short, even if you add a backsplash on top, from the front (edge) view, you will still see the gap that the back splash is hiding.
If I were you, I'd strongly urge for a new top. Pointing fingers at this point won't help. Just tell them that the compromise is too great for quality workmanship. Also remind them of the tag line: Caulking is not a piece of trim!
If they won't spring for a new top, is there any way to shift the top so it is tight to the right side wall, and create some filler trim at the transition to the sink base? I don't know what your top is made of, or the composition of your cabinets, but if the cabs were oak, make an oak piece of trim from 5/4 or 6/4 stock to fit the gap. Try to blend the trim to the cabs. First option, however, is to get a top that fits (the way it was designed, right?)
Good luck.
what's your fav saying?
Napalm??
;)
The Count-Down begins, 81 days left
Or perhaps C-4!
LMAO!Mr T
Do not try this at home!
I am an Experienced Professional!
I vote new top. We are one of the few bathroom remodelers I know who admit to using caulk. But that is a big gap especially when the surfaces won't be the same color. DanT
"What is the RIGHT way to fix this?"
Bummer. Stuff happens. Usually best to fess up to it, bite the bullet and reach for the wallet. Bad reputation will likely come back to bite everyone involved if you try to cobble this and you may never know it has nor how hard.
Off the cuff it looks like a new top is in order and evidently you know so too.....hence your empahsis on RIGHT. :-)
The 3/8" gap will easily hide behind the tile but it's going to take a pretty deep bed of mortar behind those tiles to make that top fit. Would a new top come out of your wallet or someone elses? What is the top made of? If it's pricey enough you might look at redoing the tall cabinet box an inch wider instead. Of course, then your higher counter top might not be long enough to cover the new box.
What does the floor plan look like around the cabinet? Is it inset in a niche or out in the opening? If it's recessed, can the opening be made a little smaller and the shorter cabinet box be cut down?
Just tossing out a few ideas to get you thinking about what else can be adjusted. Off the cuff, a new top sounds like the right answer but it may not be the only one.
Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
Too bad. Someone obviously double calculated the DW thickness when ordering the top.
This is that person's problem. It appears from your description "that person" is the one coming up with the white trash fix idea.
If that route is eventually taken, I fear for your reputation. Subsequent visitors/owners will/may associate the flaw with the installer.
sorry but the only acceptable option in a new top, unless ensplashes at both ends is enough, if it is then you only have to deal with the gaps under the endsplashes, but if the endsplashes can be made to fit between the top and wall, maybe it can be salvaged
another option depending on the finish state of the house, is another layer of drywall at both ends, of course realizing taping, painting, trim etc
caulking is not a piece of trim
caulking ......
That's funny.
If the tile don't cover ...... ya need a filler strip as a scribe ....
and the top still won't fit ....... so ...
I'm guessing U know the right way .....
not your decision, right?
this might be why I was never the best employee ....but .... I will confess to telling a customer ...."U didn't hear this from me .....but ....that ain't right ......"
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite
Just had a thought - i don't think you said what the top was made of. If it were Corian or something like that, i bet your fabricator could seam in a little strip and you wouldn't be able to tell. sure seems like it would be cheaper than a whole new top, and would be a correct fix.
Just a thought. Hope this helps. Rich.
We is gonna get a back and end splash for the lower piece.
The end splash will be 3/4" taller than the back so it will fill the gap.
The Material is Remay's cultured marble stuff, no seaming, but a good a good joint at the backsplash will all but disappear.
Not my decision or $$
I just have to execute(heh heh heh)
Not the first time I have saved the design team, nor the last.
I just thought that professionals were supossed to learn from thier mistakes.
Well the Hardwood guy sanded and first coated yesterday, so I won't have access til Monday.
Thanks allMr T
Do not try this at home!
I am an Experienced Professional!