I have an allowance of 1 3/4″ thick pour that will be in-between a network of finished wood flooring. Making a 4′ x 4′ poured in place tile. There will be the network of pex in floor heating running through out.
The finished look is supposed to be slate tiles incased by wood flooring.
I have a subfloor built up to hold 60 psf with osb TnG that was meant to have gype Crete poured on it. Then tiled.
Gyp Crete is an arm and a leg and can only be used through one dealer with his crew. He has the market cornered for now and I find him to high in price.
I was hoping to save some money by using my finish men and have the slab become the finish product now. But I never heard of a slab at 1 3/4″
So I need to find a proven mix that can with stand traffic through out a house,
be dyed stained what ever to look like slate,
and be non slip.
I been surfing the web and asking dealers and such with no luck so far, was hoping you could help here. Thanks akaharv
Replies
giveing this place 1 last try to see if there is n e 1 who knows n e thing about what I asked.
I think yiou better ask again cause a lot of messages were deleted but none the less....5:1 and use liquid latex mortor addititive rather than water.
a"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Try giving the local redimix batchman a call. Chances are they have had a call for your type of mix. If not, I'd bet he could come up with some info.
I have part of my house poured with a slab of 5"concrete for my radiant heat (1000 sq.ft.)and another section about the same size on top of an older and very uneven floor with thickness of between 1 1/2 and 3 inches on top of pex 1/2 "tubing fastened directly to the old plywood.I fastened metal lathe down first and there has been no cracking at all.I finished with a patina stain and we love it.I can't remember the exact specs on the concrete but it was the same as the 5" slab as spec'd by the finish guy right from the closest concrete firm.
I have done mud jobs 1 12 thick on similar subfloors. I remember one last year that only recently got tiled. For a year it got traffic and there were no cracks. I would treat it like a mudjob for a tile set. layer 30lb felt then wire mesh then pex, make sure it gets fastened well I have seen the tubing float up at times and it is no fun.
When it comes to finish I would use a wood float and perhaps a very late brush if you really are worried about traction.
I mix my jobs by hand 21 square shovels to a bag of portland I was always taught 3 to 1 I recently read that if you use pea gravel as a partial substitute to sand that ift strengthens the mix and will help with cracking. Use some latex additive but if it only 4x 4 I would not worry too much.
Al
I think minimally you use a 4:1 mix and some go 5:1 or better and it should be a very dry mix. Water weakens concrete. Its not the same mix as a regular concrete mix for a mud/tile job.
Interesting about the pea gravel.makes sense. Never heard that one before but might be an issue with radiant heat lines...or not. I like that idea though.
Also, one year isnt long enough to see results. At least 4-5 would be more realistic.
Least that's how I've been doing it over the years and seems to work real well.
Be well
Namaste
andy
"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Edited 3/6/2003 11:58:30 AM ET by Andy Clifford(Andybuildz)