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Discussion Forum

What type of fasteners should I use f…

| Posted in General Discussion on May 15, 1999 05:11am

*
I’ve read the nails vs staples topic for fastening cedar roofs but what about cedar shingle siding. I’m residing my whole house and started by hammering (by hand) 6d ring shanked stainless nails. I’m over it. I want to buy a pneumatic nailer or stapler so the job gets done before winter arrives. What tool would you recommend and what type of fastener would you recommend with it?

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  1. Guest_ | Apr 23, 1999 08:17am | #1

    *
    Rod, Maze Nails makes a variety of stainless steel fasteners for siding. See their website at: http://www.MazeNails.com then decide while nailer/stapler to aquire. (I still prefer ring nails, but have them in strips for my Senco SN60 from Maze.)

    1. Guest_ | Apr 23, 1999 09:07am | #2

      *My neighbors used a panelized cedar shingle system on their new construction -- the shingles are organized into sheets at the factory. Several years later the result looks very good (more so since they stained it) and the on-site work was, they say, extremely fast. Just another suggestion.

  2. Rod_Komis | Apr 23, 1999 10:21pm | #3

    *
    George, thanks for the nail connection.

    Are most brands of pnuematic nailers created equal, or is there a brand to stay away from or a brand that is superior? You mentioned you use a Senco so I'd guess you prefer it. Does anyone else have an opinion on manufacturers?

  3. Guest_ | Apr 24, 1999 12:59am | #4

    *
    Depth of Drive adjustment is important and plastic colation is better than wire. If I wasn't using staples, my favorite is the Hitachi coil nailer designed for drywall using HD Gal ring shank fencing nails but unfortunatly it is discontinued. It was VERY light (I am getting to be a wimp in my old age)

    1. Guest_ | Apr 24, 1999 10:03am | #5

      *Search "tools." yet another topic contractors are passionate about ...

      1. Guest_ | Apr 24, 1999 11:38am | #6

        *Last one I did used a Porter-Cable finish nailer. In about 3000 linear feet no problems and good job.But, as has been pointed out, most of these tools are pretty good. Everyone just has their own biases. I like PC because it is cheap, uses several different brands nails, and is reliable. Before you buy I suggest you try to use a couple different brands so you can develop your own biases.

        1. Guest_ | Apr 24, 1999 11:40am | #7

          *OOPS! You'r talking shingles and I'm talking siding but the advise is the same.

          1. Guest_ | Apr 24, 1999 10:46pm | #8

            *Rod, depending on your needs you may like the Paslode cordless. Nice tool, no cords or hoses. I'd like a stapler myself ... eventually. I've been impressed by the withdrawal resistance of stapled shipping boxes and kithcen cabinets I've pulled apart.SO, experts, are you all using SS nails for redwood? Or in general? I want to use them myself -- but how do you justify the frightening cost to homeowners?

  4. jcallahan | Apr 25, 1999 10:56pm | #9

    *
    A.D, just show them a job where non ss nails bled down the side of the siding or ...... make them sign a release saying you are not responsible for rust stains if nails other than stainless are not used.

  5. Guest_ | Apr 26, 1999 09:58am | #10

    *
    I don't think you can afford to not use stainless for cedar or redwood. If you're in it for the long haul, the price jump isn't as nasty when you buy them in 50# boxes.

    1. Guest_ | Apr 26, 1999 06:46pm | #11

      *Good point. i agree with mongo the price jump is "nasty".So ... use SS for (nice grades of) pt too? In general, are the perpetually bright shiny heads distracting, or does a stain mute them?On pt, a lumberyard here stocks "Kodiak" (sp?) a non-arsenic kiln-dried ready-to-finish burnable (if the need arises) select grade of pressure treated that is natural brown. Any experience with it out there in Estwing land? Price is competitive with ordinary pt which the lumberyard guy conceded was "not safe" (maybe 'cause they were selling an alternative...).

  6. Rod_Komis | Apr 27, 1999 09:28am | #12

    *
    andrew, thanks for directing me to the tools section. I'm still learning my way around here, but I should have known there would be a whole section devoted to the discussion of tools. So much to read, so little time.

  7. Guest_ | Apr 28, 1999 09:27am | #13

    *
    We get a lot of seasonal movement here in THE GREAT NORTHWEST due to the high moisture. Most decks (pt or cedar) are screwed nowdays here. Most recent trend is a kind of vinal coated screw - kind of deep green - maybe like a #10 with real aggressive threads. Babies really get home fast! - yb

    1. Guest_ | Apr 28, 1999 06:36pm | #14

      *Are "Deckmate" screws -- ceramic I think -- any good? The ones HD stocks by the thousands?YB, are the screws heads left exposed? Looks OK?

      1. Guest_ | Apr 29, 1999 09:36am | #15

        *andrew d. - I had this all typed up and pushed the "Post" button and the board crashed! Sorry you guys! Anyway, now the board's back and everyone is off chasing the missus around the bedroom or something.I set my screw gun just a hair shallower than I set it for drywall. just enough to get maybe 1 100th of an inch below the surface, but not so deep as to leave the ring scar of the nozzle.Do they look OK? I think they do, but I like lots of exposed hardware anyway - through bolts, log collars, rows of nails running up a wall of siding stuff like that. They are certainly not much different than nail heads in the same application...and since you asked, I am thinking that whoever chose green as the color really must have done their homework. Sounds like they would be goofy looking doesn't it? But they aren't at all - you see them alright, but they look "right" - go figure.In my original post there was something I wanted to ask you but I've lost it, talk to you later - yb

        1. Guest_ | Apr 29, 1999 11:01am | #16

          *ive used a lot of the deckmate screws,square drive,and they seem to hold up well, not too noticable. try mcfeeleys for stainless nails you can get them in job paks of 1000 so you dont have to get a whole case for 3 or 4 hudred bucks and have them sitting around untill the next job. theres also a place on the web, maybe nails.com that sells a variety. stainless does stain after a while isnt always shiney, at least not near the gulf of mexico where i am.

          1. Guest_ | Apr 29, 1999 09:51pm | #17

            *It may depend on the stainless mix -- I didn't know there were so many kinds ... 304, 305, 410, etc. McFeely's sells even more expensive ss for marine application.nails.com is a P&G site. Always looking for more Internet vendors -- anyone looked through the FHB links?

          2. Guest_ | Apr 29, 1999 11:52pm | #18

            *Sorry Andrew, its nail1.com. Also maze nails have a site, swan secure has one. Also fascoamerica.com. Duofast, and senco as well. If i need small quantity i get mcfeelys(1000 count boxes) larger quantities from a local dealer or fasco which is near me. I use 316 stainless near the water, and 304 if i use stainless on a deck or fence or things like that. Would like to know if anyone has any longterm experience with hot dipped pnuematic vs electroplate. In my experience the electroplate doesnt hold up all that well, heads rust when driven pnuematicaly,i guess the plating chips off. thanks

  8. Rich_Hart | Apr 30, 1999 08:32pm | #19

    *
    Is there enough difference in holding power with a narrow crown staple over a finish nail to justify buying a stapler. I already own a Porter Cable finish nailer. What would anyone recomend for nails or staples?

  9. Guest_ | Apr 30, 1999 08:47pm | #20

    *
    Rich,

    The staples hold a lot better than the finish nails. I mail ordered the porter cable MS200 for $210 including shipping.

    Ron

  10. Rich_Hart | Apr 30, 1999 09:22pm | #21

    *
    Ron,

    Thanks for the response. Where did you order the ms200 from? Any reason why the ns150 wouldn't work? What kind of staples do you recomend?

    Thanks again.

    Rich

  11. Guest_ | May 03, 1999 09:02pm | #22

    *
    Hi Rich,

    I think that I got it at Tool Crib of the North. I called several places in the back of FHB. Look for some place that has it on special. I have never tried the ns150. I think that one has smaller diameter wire and a narrower crown. It probably would work on cedar shingles but not on sheathing, I use the ms200 on both. I got my staples from a boat store. The brand wasn't marked but they were 316 stainless. I only use the staples for blind nailing so electro-gal. would probably be ok except near salt water. I allways hand nail anything exposed with Stainless steel ring shanks.

    Ron

  12. Rod_Komis | May 15, 1999 05:11am | #23

    *
    I've read the nails vs staples topic for fastening cedar roofs but what about cedar shingle siding. I'm residing my whole house and started by hammering (by hand) 6d ring shanked stainless nails. I'm over it. I want to buy a pneumatic nailer or stapler so the job gets done before winter arrives. What tool would you recommend and what type of fastener would you recommend with it?

  13. Ron_Budgell | May 15, 1999 05:11am | #24

    *
    The fastest way by far, and possibly the best way, too, to shingle a side wall is with a stapler. Senco sells stainless staples for their machines at about three times the price of their galvanized staples, but the galvanizing on staples is too thin to be more than a poor joke, anyway.

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