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Discussion Forum

What type roofing to replace existing

alfred | Posted in General Discussion on November 3, 2004 03:51am

I have an 1800 sq ft 3/12 pitch roof which currently has a 26 year old “hot tar” built up surface.  I have re-tarred it with a good quality silver tar surface several times and in some places the roof has been cracking.  I am trying to choose between replacing it with metal roofing (horizontal strapping over bituthane with metal panels screwed down and lapping along the pitch at least two feet on each course of panels) or a rolled on rubber marketed by a firm in Baltimore Md.  The cost seems similar as much as I can figure, but don’t want to use one and find out the other would have been better.  I don’t want to use EPDM sheets because I want to save onthe labor by doing the work myself. The rolled on rubber can be done with a fabrique overlay (though I don’t feel it is needed(?)) or just rolled on with a paint type roller after using a binder to help attach it to the asphalt surface.  I have thirty years construction experience and I live in a Zone 3-4 area in Central Vermont, at 1500 feet above sea level.  Can anyone help me with this decision?

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  1. User avater
    lindenboy | Nov 03, 2004 09:46pm | #1

    While a 'built-up' roof is a good roofing system (some prefer it to EPDM), a metal, standing seam type roof will last longer.  I would suggest checking the warranties on the roofing systems through either the product reps or the contractors and use whichever gives you the longest lasting performance, assuming the costs truly ARE comparable, and that you don't have an preference aesthetically.

    I've noticed that built-up and EPDM generally last 20 - 30 years, while standing seam can go for twice as long or more before requiring maintenance.

    j

  2. AnneC | Nov 04, 2004 04:27pm | #2

    Fred,

    I'm sure that you'll get more responses if you post your question in the "Breaktime" forum. That is the forum associated with Fine Homebuilding. (House Chat is associated with Inspired House magazine.) Just look at the navigation bar at the top of your page & you'll see Breaktime.

    Good luck!

    - Anne

  3. Piffin | Nov 07, 2004 02:39am | #3

    There is no reason you could not use shinglers on a 3/12 pitch. For your climate, I would use ice and water shield ( bitutyne) on the entire surface after tearing off the BUR.

    The original BUR roof was probably rated as a 15 -20 year roof to begin with, so for the Vermont climate, 26 years is excellent value.

    Youi should plan and prepare to find some rotted sheathing when you tear off the old roofing though, since continual minor leaks from such an aged roof will elave a compromised sheathing under it.

    EPDM can be had for DIYs. One of the sources is in New England, tho the name escapes me tonight. Try Google

     

     

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    1. woodbutch777 | Nov 22, 2004 03:25pm | #4

      3/12 pitch in vermont and shingle it ? Even wrapping the whole roof in Ice& Water and shingling it with a 4'' exposure could be pushing it but I have done it for a visible roofs before but if you can not see it go with rubber and forget it

  4. Isamemon | Nov 27, 2004 11:05pm | #5

    With your low pitch of 3/12 then standing seam may be the best because 3-tab does not like going that flat without a membrane under it

    Regional differences can come into play. While standing seam is a functional roof, out here I can put on a  40 year laminate for  just more then half the  price of quality  colored standing seam. A 50 year for about 1/3rd less

    Also out here we have a few companies that standing seam is thin, yet code approved, and if you read the thinner warranty, the warranty only covers the color. We also have the good stuff.

    ALso any body can buy the standing seam, but for warranties to be intact, must be installed by a factory approved installer. ( But any roofing material can be botched)

    So stick with good quality, know the warranty , and go with an approved installer

    and since you want to do it yourself, the metal can be faster, check on the warranty

    1. alfred | Dec 01, 2004 06:56am | #6

      I appreciate your input.  More and more, I think I  will be stripping the old roof off next summer, applying Bytuthane(sp)--ice and water shield, and then screwing metal panels down.  All the standing seam contractors have said they'd put down ice and water shield anyway, and that should seal all the screw entries.  I am also considering strapping the roof after the ice and water shield and then screwing the roof, just to allow for "cold air" to keep the roof cool.

      1. UncleDunc | Dec 01, 2004 11:48am | #7

        >> Bytuthane(sp)Close. Very close. :) Bituthene.

        1. zendo | Dec 01, 2004 02:32pm | #8

          dont forget your roof is going to weigh like 20 tons... maybe an 18 year old to tear it off first maybe 2 they are cheap, then do what you want.

          1. alfred | Dec 09, 2004 07:24am | #9

            Thank you for the input. I do plan now to remove the old "hot tar built up roof" before I replace it with Ice and Water shield, followed by strapping and screwing metal sheets down.  The roof will not weigh that much per square foot, and the metal will allow the snow we get to slide off. 

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