What’s Best finish for northern white cedar lap siding?
Getting close to installing my natural-edge siding on my summer cottage in northern MI. I was planning to use Sikkens SRD but a paint pro who stocks it and Sansin is steering me towards the Sansin SDF penetrating stain/sealer.
Would anybody like to add to my confusion by suggesting other products to look at? Or some things to avoid?
I’m strongly leaning towards a non-film-forming product. Even though it may need attention sooner I think it’s less work. On a 1000sf single-story cottage I don’t think regular maintenance is a big factor but stripping a film coat off is something I’d like to avoid.
Replies
Mach
Here's some more confusion for you.
For 20 some yrs I had used P&L siding stain-semi transparent. Loved the stuff-got 7 yrs protection out of it on the sunny side-a bit more on the north and east.
Then their oil stains went the way of many penetrating wood stains and voc's.
So, tried Sikins SDR oil stain-strong stuff and a bit different, but it went on nice and seems to be lasting........(2 yrs) .
Then that too went the way of the P&L-could get it in some states, but not here in Ohio.
So, last fall, tried their waterbourne SDR. While it MAY protect like the oil, not so sure on the application. It dries pretty fast-so you have to keep going on the length of the board-otherwise lap marks will show quite easily-sun shade cool warm, seems any type of application weather makes no difference.
Both Sikins said you had to get the old finish off (theirs and others) b/4 you reapply............while I do sand to knock off the "powder" of the old stain, I don't take all the finish off............this might be a problem down the road. It was not on the first application.
It's weird that all the penetrating products I've looked at require you to either sand or power wash (or both) brand-new wood--even thirsty wood like cedar. I've never had to do this for any woodworking project--don't know if it's really necessary or a CMA-type thing.
Mach
I guess I didn't realize that sanding etc was necessary and advised on new wood b/4 applying stain. Perhaps to remove mill glaze so there is more penetration rather than it sitting and drying on top.
Beats me.