good title huh? i guess i’m better at asking than answering.
i have a post over a deck over a 7.5″ space over a large tripled 2×10 beam. i want to fill that space so the posts weight (don’t know how much weight, but alot) transfers onto the beam.
is it better to fill it with a chunk of tripled up 2×8’s on end, a chunk of tripled up 2×8’s on edge, a chunk of laminated plywood on end, or a chunk of laminated plywood on the flat?
thanks all, hope i’m not drivin’ anyone nuts….yet
Replies
If I understand you correctly, you're saying your deck framing is 2x8...that should leave you a space of 7-7.5", depending on actual site conditions.
Having encountered virtually the same problem recently, I would fill the space with the same size lumber stacked on edge (like the 2x10 beam you refer to)...if the lumber you use is green or wet, rip the next size down to give you approx. 1/4" more height than what you have...either jack up existing or beat in new. That way, when it shrinks, it'll still be tight.
Jason Pharez Construction
Framing & Exterior Remodeling
thanks, was just thinking that laminated plywood would be stronger especially since the "blocking" will only be about the length of the width of the beam below, ws worried such a short length would split.
really appreciate it
The question you are asking is 2 part:
1. Should you use lumber or plywood
2. How should you orient it in the structure
You describe the new piece as being in compression. So the answer to 2. is : with the grain of the wood in the direction of the compression force, i.e. vertical like the post.
The answer to 1. is that plywood is always weaker than lumber of the same species as half the plies are at 90deg.
DG/Builder
didn't know that. cool, thanks.
what about glulam, paralam or one of those? aren't those alternating grain direction?
No. Not those. Glulam is a bunch of 2x lumber glued together. Parallam is "Shards of timber that are formed longitudinally in line with the length of the beam, hence parallam" (definition copied from a manufacturer's website). LVL may look like plywood but is "produced by bonding thin wood veneers together in a large billet. The grain of all veneers is parallel to the long direction" (again copied).
All of these products are mostly for beam applications. In your situation I understood you need a spacer to take up the gap and transfer load vertically. Basically a very short post. Don't know your loads and geometry, but I'm guessing lumber in any orientation would probably handle it.
DG/builder
yup, a spacer.thanks! comfortable now.
And take Jason's advice. Make sure the spacer is as dry as possible and overpack it slightly, so you don't lose the load transfer when it shrinks.
DG/Builder
got it!thank you
Hi Merlvern,
I don't mean to seem condecending here but...what is the post holding up?You say: i want to fill that space so the posts weight (don't know how much weight, but alot) transfers onto the beamYou say it's a lot of weight, and you are putting a point load on a transfer beam, maybe you should consult a structural engineer, just to be safe. Or, maybe I am misunderstanding. "Oh, this is the worst-looking hat I ever saw. What, when you buy a hat like this I bet you get a free bowl of soup, huh? Oh, it looks good on you though."
Edited 3/2/2006 12:16 pm ET by xosder11
nothing condescending there......old house, seems hinckey to me, just want to put some support in there. i had an architect look at it and he said it was fine, starting from the basement floor, there is a lally column holding the tripled beam, on top of that (perpendicular) are the floor joists, on top of which is the "deck" holding the post. i am straightening the post (it's out of plumb) and the post "falls" between the joists and i would just feel more comfortable with it having direct contact to the tripled beam rather than the weight offset to the joists via the deck.thanks,john
There you go.. Yeah you should absolutely pack some solid blocking in there. There is an article in this months FHB that talks about putting a new header in an old wall. There is an illustration in that article that mentions creating a continuous load path. If I remember correctly the illustration showed a condition similar to what you are describing. It might be worth looking at."Oh, this is the worst-looking hat I ever saw. What, when you buy a hat like this I bet you get a free bowl of soup, huh? Oh, it looks good on you though."
love rodney, is he dead?the reason for the post, was that i was concerned that blocking, with solid wood, at this size, 7.5x4.5x4.5 might split out or something.good to know my instinct about "continuous load path" was on target
Rodney has unfortunatly passed on. If you ever have the chance, watch the "making of" special features on the dvd of caddy shack. I love the way director Harold Ramis describes working with Rodney. He was on another playng field alltogether : )I guess caddyshack was Rodny's first movie outside of the the standup comedy he was used to. I guess he thought he was not doing a good job on the set because nobody was laughing at him. He was so used to standup and the direct feedback from the audience."Oh, this is the worst-looking hat I ever saw. What, when you buy a hat like this I bet you get a free bowl of soup, huh? Oh, it looks good on you though."
Edited 3/2/2006 1:28 pm ET by xosder11
put in the blocking and replaced the post today, was able to pack in the blocking between the joists.....made em slightly tall and persuaded them in.thanks for the help
Unless you use marine grade plywood, one day it will delaminate.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt