Hi there,
There are a few thinset available. which one would be the best one to use for interior and for bathroom? Also, what’s the best adhesive for livingroom floor. if I want to put the tiles it directly on the sub-floor (5/8″) ? Thanks in advance Mirav
Replies
I like the TEC Supply brand. They make a few good ones. Fullflex and Superflex are the 2 I usaully use. They have a good website. Alot of info.
Headstrong, I'll take on anyone!
The best? Gonna be lots of opinions (and questions) but here's a good place to start:
www.mapei.com
PaulB
Hey the mapei website is great. thanks.
what's the best adhesive for livingroom floor. if I want to put the tiles it directly on the sub-floor (5/8") ?
Nothing.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
I agree with you on this one, nothing would be best.
That way you can lift the tiles up and wash them individually. :) Thoughts determine what you want,Action determines what you get
yup ...
right after they pop off the 5/8th ply.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Did I not tell you last fall to watch out for Staal and Crosby. Next year you will have a kid named Ryan Parent on defence too. How far wil the Pengins go? I'm thinking Pitsburgh and BUffalo in the east.
Have a good day
Cliffy
PS I started teaching apprentices a few months back, when we did the section on steel studs, I showed them your method with the knife and bend for cutting. Of course I told them that this method is called Bucking the stud!
Laticrete
...best grout is SpectraLock for most things!!!
http://laticrete.com/Products/tabid/144/Default.aspx
edit: and there should be a minimum layer of 1 1/4" of subfloor.
Be well
andy
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Edited 3/22/2007 7:48 pm ET by andybuildz
Right on both - Laticrete and the 1-1/4".
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I was gonna use the SpectraLock on my new shower tile work I just finished yesterday but after doing a test piece I decided against it which is why I said in my previous post its good on "most" tile jobs. I used tumbled marble which made me concerned about epoxy grout with all the cavities and it being a natural and unfinished stone etc etc etc so as I said I did a test and it's too iffy to take a chance in this case but for most normal tile work I say go for it. I used it on one tile job and it comes out incredable!! Its a little onthe expensive side but way worth the little extra $$$
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
If you didn't use the Spectralock on tumbled marble, what did you use? I ask because I have to grout tumbled marble in my own bathroom and I don't know what I should use. Everything else is Laticrete, that's all I can get around here.
I used just regular sanded grout,,I used the SpectraLock on a porcelin floor.http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Edited 3/23/2007 11:37 am ET by andybuildz
This leads to my question...when are we gonna see pics? Or did I miss them.. I saw the prep work. Ah..never mind. When I see your work I am ashamed to continue mine!
Thanks! Ernie
Prolly grout next week...I have the bathroom floor just outside the shower to do next. That should go fast. I figure I may as well let the thinset get rock hard before I grout anyway being I'm still working in that bathroom.
Kinda hard taking pictures in the shower cause it is so small.4x4. I tried yesterday holding the camera up over my head at the ceiling corner and shooting haphazardly...lol. I'll have to download em' and see what I have.I'll repost when the whole bathrooms done.
Been trying to do it as least expensive as possible which is a trip in of itself!!
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
What's best is what's on sale at Lowes. I made friends with the tile dept guy, and they hold torn bags for me at $5 each. Seriously, just get a name brand latex modified thinset and have at it.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
a name brand latex modified thinset and have at it.
That was my first thought reading the thread title--the bset thinset you have is better than any back on the loading dock or at the store.
Of course, I'm thinking either of us would still be prepping OPs floor properly for tile, too . . . Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
You better listen to the Buck, he is right on this one. Better put down another layer, screwed glued and tatooed.Then use versa bond.
Have a good day
CLiffy
Nothing will hold the tiles to 5/8ths" ply. At least not for too long. Too much flex in the floor.
You need to screw another layer over what you have, seams staggered.
If you are going to thinset tile directly over ply, don't use a modified thinset.
Use dryset, and then add acryilc latex modifier to the dryset to modify it yourself. No water, just admix.
That said, you're probably just going to tile right on the 5/8ths, right? If so, you may do just as well with the latest greatest product that I'm sure will soon be the darling of HGTV, snap in tiles.
Mongo
That said, you're probably just going to tile right on the 5/8ths, right? <<<
If anyone does...they're not craftsman..they're fools!!
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
thanks for your advice. One more question: If I screw 1/4" hardybecker on top of the 5/8" plywood, would it be enough or do I have to go 1/2" hardybecker?
Thanks.
Hardibacker, or any other CB for that matter, offers little to nothing structural in terms of adding stiffness to the floor.So adding 1/4" or 1/2" of cement board really won't matter.CB is simply a transition piece to go from tiling on something that thinset can have trouble adhering to (plywood) to something that thinset can easily adhere to (cement or fibercement board).Thinset has trouble sticking to ply because ply is wood, and wood and thinset/tile have differing rates of movement.If you do put cement board over ply, the proper way is to bed the cb in thinset and screw the cb to the ply. That will eliminate any voids between the CB and the ply. Voids cause movement, movement causes cracked grout and popped tiles.To increase the strength of the floor, you need more ply, which is why everyone is harping on you having to add more structural stiffness to the floor. Best bet would be to add a layer of ply underlayment over what you have. Then CB over that. If the CB will make the floor too thick, go with a membrane like Ditra. Ditra's only about 1/8th" thick and it works well as a transition between ply and tile.With the 5/8ths subfloor you've been dealt a hand that's a card short.What size tile will you be putting down on the floor?
Edited 3/23/2007 3:24 pm ET by Mongo
thanks for the detailed answer. I'm puting ceramic tiles 12X12.