When you install the durock in a tub stall and it butts up against drywall, do you just use your thinset and the mesh tape to join the two? or is drywall mud. I have used the thinset method several times with no problem but have thought of this question many times and have just never got around to asking anyone else. If there is wall paper going up above the tile surround, the thinset might affect it.
just a passing thought..I want to know what the rest of the world is doing.
Replies
use the water resistant mud...
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I've done both ways, depends on what materials are being used and where they stop.
If I'm really concerned, I use Durabond fast set mud...and no, not the Easysand
Here is a trick of mine I posted a while ago:
54798.4 in reply to 54798.1
You might try a micrograin cementious floor patching compound designed to be sanded smooth to a feather edge. I've used it to tape cement board joints because you can get very smooth, flat joints, which helps get better tiling results than with less smooth thinset on theses joints (I know you won't be tiling and would need more stuff--it relatively expensive).
One product of this kind is called "Micro Finish" and it is a cementitious skim coat and patching compound. It is made by Para-Chem (http://www.parachem.com).
Cement board should never be taped with joint compond, that defeats the purpose of using cement board (read the instructions on any cement board product). Thinset or other common mortars are not fine-grained enough to tape joints smoothly. I think using a product like this is far better than durabond and joint compound for this kind of application, but is much easier to work with (far smoother) and easier to sand on taped joints than thinset (thinset is not really designed for taping joints or being sanded).
Does the durock have any guidelines printed on the packaging?
Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
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