I’m looking for a 0.250 inch wide segmented diamond blade for cinrcular saw. Can somebody tell me where to buy them?
Thanks,
I’m looking for a 0.250 inch wide segmented diamond blade for cinrcular saw. Can somebody tell me where to buy them?
Thanks,
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Replies
0.250 inch wide
You sure you want it 1/4" wide?
Your cheapest bet if just for occasional use is to buy 2 or 3 harbor frieght diamond cheapies. Have cut over 100 linear feet of concrete 2" or so deep with one of the $8 (on sale) 7-1/4" diamond blades and it still cuts fine.
I'll go measure the thickness of a single blade cut if that route interests you.
you could try these guys
http://www.masterwholesale.com/
For an angle grinder not a circular saw:
4.5" x .250" Diamond Blade - estimated cost $200.00
"Engrave-A-Crete" (Engrave-A-Crete.com)
Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
Ebay - lots of Chinese cheapos and also many quality blades.
I've bought a bunch of MK blades on Ebay for less than buying direct from MK.
But, .25 thick? What are you doing with it?
Joe H
www.hardrocktool.com
Marble and granite tool supplier. I've use them alot lately
I’m interested on acid stained my basement floor. I saw various methods to mimic the grout line on a 3’ x 3’ tile design. But from the pictures I’ve seen, scoring looks really professional. I just bought “The Complete Guide to Stained Concreteâ€. This is the only source I have that makes reference to scoring the floor using the 0.250 inch wide segmented diamond blade for circular saw. I’m just interested in going 1/16†deep on the concrete. Thanks for your reply.
I've cut it seems like miles of ceement with a skill saw and diamond blade. But for the garage floor I just finished rejunventating and staining, I'm hiring out the saw cuts.
These guys have machines (Engravacrete's and others) that allow them to achieve superior results. Unless you have real long straight edges (how are you gonna keep them in position?) to run your saw against, it's gonna look like a kid did it. And at the end of a job that can't be redone, one doesn't need that hassle.
I'm wondering why you couldn't just stack a couple or three of the regular (i.e., cheap) diamond blades like a dado set and use a straight edge to guide the saw.
Get ready for a major league dust storm in your house, tho' I suppose you could spray a bit of water on the cut to minimize that.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
I was thinking the same thing / s.
Thanks for typing that for me.Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
You've just stained the floor. How will you attach a straight edge to the floor? Tapcons? Hot melt glue?
weight. or kickers.Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
"I was thinking the same thing / s.
Thanks for typing that for me."
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Good luck with that. Didn't work for me.
I'll be ok.
I'm a professional. ;)Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
A small vacuume pump or Venturi that hooks to a compresser is the trick.
Use peel and stick weather stripping in a complete line around the edge of say a nice jointed 2x4, drill a hole in the center of the field created and attach the vacuume hose to a barb screwed in the hole.
I do stuff all the time like that for wood working jigs..vacuume is our friend. My pump is nothing more than a homeade cobble up from an old air comp. plumbed backwards, running off a washing machine motor. It'll pull 27" no problem. I use it with a bag for veneering or odd glue ups like stack laminating.
A venturi can be had fairly cheap, but only pulls a vac, when consuming air, so a vac can be pulled, and the air cut off until it fades and then re-vac. They make auto cycle venturis butthey get into the 200$ plus range.
Everyone should have a vacuume pump, just too damm handy to have around to not have one.
I could stick a 16' 2x4 to the floor in 30 seconds and you cannont pick it off unless ya pry enough to break the seal. For a job like this, it doesn't even have to pull a full vac, just enough to clamp the 2x4 guide.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
I'll buy that suggestion.
I just cut a straight edge from a piece of ply, so it can be sorta wide, and let My Lovely Assistant stand on it while I'm cutting.
She don't weigh much, but she gets the job done!
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
I know pearl abrasives makes a 1/4" wide "rodding" blade for Harris Accuglide tracksaws.
If I am recalling correctly it is 7 1/4" though it might be 8 1/4".
They are made to cut a kerf in the back of a countertop slab that will accept a length of stainless or fiberglass rod and epoxy to reinforce a delicate section.
You can also buy rodding blades in 4" to 5" sizes for angle grinders and small circular saws. Alpha professional tools makes one they market under the name "Hot rod".
My local slab yard has some small diameter cheap chinese rodding blades as well.
For what you are doing, I liked the earlier suggestion of stacking up two or three conventional blades. Around here you can get a decent 7" diamond blade for 30 bucks.
Good luck,
karl