I do. That’s the issue. Where to put it.
We’re finishing an inside foyer for washer/dryer and sparky reminds me to put the vent in. Outside wall is about 8′ away, with a tiled bathroom shower in the way.
Do I drive myself nuts trying to snake the vent line over the shower (no room to work – maybe 8″ and that’s got insulation), or do I drop it down into the basement, then out the nearest window. I’m leaning towards that, but the vent would be almost at ground level inside a small brick window well about 18″ by 24″.
Any problems there?
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations – New Construction – Rentals
Replies
If you go down through the floor, you may get cold drafts in the winter. If you go up through the ceiling, it may be hard to clean. Code may require it to go out the wall because of fire problems with floor/ceiling penetrations.
Goldfreaz- I guess I wasn't clear on the exit. I cannot go horizontally, directly out the wall because of the shower. If I go up, then I will make a turn at the ceiling to go over the shower, then out the wall. That means cutting two walls - one interior, and one exterior and fighting a path through the insulation that's in there.
As far as the floor penetration and fire resistance, I'll look into that.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
Keep it short, keep it smooth, and none of that plastic junk.
20' max legth, rule of thumb, with each 90 degree = 5'
can you go directly thru the roof? no one likes to cut thru a roof but it's really a non issue... we vent up all the time... like was stated bends are bad... i find going up thru a flashing boot to be easy... you have a slip fit so u can adjust it to exactly where it needs to connect...
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ponytl- Roof venting isn't going to work. If we go straight up, the vent comes out in the middle of a bedroom floor. Kind of hard to decorate around it unless you like the industrial look, plus, then I'll run afoul of the 20' rule.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
you always have the option of a "vent free washer dryer" I have to use a few in my current project... for the few $$$ more they cost it'd cost 3x that to vent one
p
Where does the moisture and lint and heat go in the "vent free" dryer. Sounds to good to be true!!! (and most likely is)
actually pretty common unit..."vent free" in europe... I have one on my bus (rv) all i've seen are combo units washer dryer in one... not stacked but one unit... sounds like a jet engine when it winds up spins that fast as it removes moisture... then it goes into dry mode... most are smaller 15-20 lb units but they do make em full size... do a search on ebay a guy in texas sells em wholesale
p
Actually not as bad as I thought. Would do in a pinch!!
Some had 160 minute dry cycles!!! Good for patient or retired folk.
Many have drain water catch basins like dehumidifiers. so have to drain the bucket to get rid of water after each load as you don't want it to start growing mould/algae between uses.
Some models air cool the hot moist air to condense the water from the clothes. Some are using evaporator/condensors as in air conditioners to dry the air. More and expensive equipment to repair!
Have same energy efficiency as vented dryers- middle of the road. can be a problem for those in hot climates as they vent all the heat indoors!!! Up go the air conditioning bills.
Better units are $800-$1,800- bit rich for myself!!!
the ones i've seen pump the water they extract out the drain...
p
I've seen the combo units. I understand that they are more expensive and I believe i read they release some humidity back into the room. I intend to use this as a rental in a few months and don't want either the initial expense of the combo unit, or the future hassles with it.
It looks like I'm venting out the window. I just have visions of the entire window well being full of lint some day!
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
Any way to go into the basement and then thru a wall between floor joists? That's how mine goes - except it's in a crawl space. I have a flapper vent cap on the outside of the wall about 8" above the ground. The cap is behind some landscaping so it isn't visible but there's a pretty good amount of steam when we use the dryer on a cool morning - lol.
Looks like the basement it is. I don't really want to go through the rim joists. They are double 2x8s old timber and balloon frame. I'd rather move over the extra few feet and vent through the window, it's not being used right now anyway. Thanks.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
Will you be able to go thru the window and still close it? I would be concerned with water getting in - and "critter" access into the basement.
Personally, I would go thru the rim joist. The structural loads are in the floor joists and centering the vent line hole between floor joists wouldn't cause structural problems. The biggest hassle would be cutting the hole - lol.
What I will most likely do is pop out one of the glasses. The window is 24w x 36h double hung, 6 over 1. I'll replace the glass with a piece of tin or such and just push the vent through it. The window hasn't been opened in 30 years and recently we ran a 3 inch waste line in front of it, so other than a little light, it's worthless.
If I wanted to go through the rim joist, I would have to go under the floor beams, then come back up to go out, the equivalent of 2 more 90 degree turns, making 4 in total plus 10' of pipe, or I could cut 4 inch holes through 7 or 8 beams that are about 120 years old. Sounds like a fun way to learn some new cuss words, no?
That's on the list for the next few days, once the weather clears and I can get outside. Actually, I can get outside now, but I'll just get wet and cold in the process. There is plenty to do inside too.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
Doesn't sound like much fun whatever you do - lol. At least it should be reasonably accessable and easy to clean out when needed.