I’m getting ready to do the ridge and I called a half dozen tool rental places to see about getting a shingle cutter. I’ve done enough shingles with the box cutter already. But none of the places rent them. This is surprising, since we are talking about a $4-500 tool that a home DIY’er would only need every 20 years. Seems like a perfect tool to rent.
Anywho, is my only option a box cutter. Could I buy a cheapo blade for the chop saw and do a half dozen at a time? Other ideers?
Replies
Maybe some new blades for the utility knife and you'll be done in the time it would take to go to HD and rent the tool they don't have.
Joe H
buy hip and ridge shingles
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Are you seriously using a box cutter? Or are you using a heavy duty utility knife?
I never minded cutting hip and ridge. I work on them in the cool basement when it's too hot to be up on the roof. Or I cut some the evening before I start on a roof, and haul them up when I need 'em.
Once my boys got old enough, that's a good job for them. Keeps 'em busy for quite a while.
Beauty is skin deep.
Ugly goes right to the bone.
not that everyone doesn't know this ...
but ... I once worked along side a guy ....
that didn't know that if ya cut from the back ...
that blade lasts about 1000 times longer.
he kept complaining ... and changing blades ... my curiousity finally got the best of me and I watched him for a while ...
Yeah ... those granules will dull a blade right quick!
Jeff
Buck Construction, llc Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
When you find a place that rents one see if they have a shingle stretcher.
But seriously, I've done hundreds of roofs and the only place I've seen a shingle cutter is in a trade magazine.
FWIW, I have cut archy's with a heavy pair of snips
what you really need is a Laub knife. try this place:
http://www.rwc.org/u/web/rwcorg/cgi-local/catalog.cgi
they're about 6 bucks + another 5 for a pack of blades. the blade is slightly hooked so that while you use it with the granule face of the shingle up, it actually cuts from the back side. it takes a minute to get the hang of using- try tilting it over at a bit of an angle instead of holding it perpendicular to the shingle surface.
m
I've got one. In the right situation, they're a great time saver. Cutting Grand Manors or similar you can get a factory looking cut. We normally cut the short shingles of a rake stack or cut stagger books on the ground in the shade. Once you get the hang of it, the nailer doesn't have to stop and pull his knife out or go back and cut the rake. Enen if they don't save time, they produce a prettier edge.
Thats great if you work from the rake. I prefer to snap two vertical lines near the center of the roof so my cut tabs match at the rakes.
I hate to see 6,12 on one end then 3,9 on the other. Looks better if you lay it out so you end up with 4 1/2, 10 1/2. Then snap a line on the rake and cut with a hook blade.
Everybody does something a little different. I remember the days when it was too hot to walk on the shingles. When I was young and ambitious we used to shingle from the top down six rows at a time. It would slow you down a bit but we worked through the day without scuffing the shingles.
I recall reading an article in FHB or JLC a few years back about top down shingling. Unfortunately I don't recall the details. How does one fasten the course of shingles that gets slipped under the preceding courses.
Any other pointers on this technique?
Karl
<<I recall reading an article in FHB or JLC a few years back about top down shingling. Unfortunately I don't recall the details. How does one fasten the course of shingles that gets slipped under the preceding courses.
You need to first snap horizontal lines at least every 30 inches. I like to snap at every ten when shingling top down. Start 6 rows below the peak. Nail the first row at the top of the shingle for now. Nail on next five rows as usual. finish up your ridgevent and cap.
Then move down the roof and start the next field six rows below what is installed nailing the first row high again. Pay close attention to your stagger if your using 3 tabs. Nail on the next four rows as usual. when you get to the sixth row slip a shingle under that upper fields' first row (the one you nailed high to start)and nail holding up that shingle. then lift the shingle above the one you nailed high and nail that one off too.
Dont wait too long before nailing off the sixth row or the shingles may not come apart, especially on a hot day.
I know this is difficult when hand nailing but with a gun you can move pretty quick once you get your rythum down.
That makes sense, Thanks for the reply
"Dont wait too long before nailing off the sixth row or the shingles may not come apart"
The one time I did this, I saved the backing from the Ice/Storm Shield stuff and slipped it in there so the shingles wouldn't seal. It was a very hot week. Worked pretty good.
Rich Beckman
Another day, another tool.
You have to lift up the bottom course. It's easier with a gun.
I can imagine a gun makes it a lot easier, Thanks for the reply
We seldom work on roofs that can be shingled rake to rake. Most everything is steep, high and cut up.
They rent one at the rental place here... damn lotta good that'll do ya'
did you ask at the rental place if they'd consider getting one in?
my favorite rental place would take suggestions ....
if it looked like something they could make money on .. they'd get one in.
alas ... the owner retired ... no one in the family wanted to run the biz ...
so he sold everything off.
Jeff
Buck Construction, llc Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
The woman at the better rental place said she'd never had anyone ask for one. Tomorrow looks to be pretty hot so I'm going to lay a bunch out in the sun and let them warm up before I cut. I do have a pack of the hook blades but was waiting to use them when I trim the rakes. I'll screw a jig together and just hack away.
I was surprised to find it was a tool that very few people seem to use. I figured it would be as useful to a roofer as a chop saw was to a trim guy. Live and learn.
I'm pretty happy with the quality of the job. But at the rate I lay shingles down, I'm not going to be switching careers soon. Gotta be a better way for me to make $3/hr. ;-)
hello jetboy;
working on the ridge is my favorite because i know i'm onmost done with the job. I save the ridges for the last because I cut the shingles as I go up. Go about five courses up then put a shingle along the end of the ridge then cut down alond the side of the shingle. You can use a straight blade but make sure you cut fron underneat the shingle. The best blade to use for cutting shingles is hook blade, especially if the shingles are worm. Hook blades cut right through the granules.
"The best blade to use for cutting shingles is hook blade, especially if the shingles are worm"
chello... I was reading down this thread... wondering when someone was gonna suggest that... Sheesh... I'd hate to do a shingle job without my hook blades. You can cut a bundle of shingles very fast with a hook. Only way to go.
In case they don't know... They fit any regular utility knife holder... and they are cheap. --- BRICK
"They say that there is a fine line between genius and insanity. I like to color outside the lines...and then eat the crayons." ~ Me