Replies

1. 
   Steve1 | Mar 02, 2003 05:58pm | #1

   the most elegant way is to add a small jamb extension of clear pine. bashing the drywall with a hammer to flaten it out? not on my jobs thanks

2. 
   calvin | Mar 02, 2003 08:20pm | #2

   First off, what will the boss say when you spend more time or money on doing it another way?

   If an even "protrusion", either jamb ext. to make up the distance or perhaps if minor and even  protrusion, rip the backside of the casing, up to where it sits on the jamb, thinner. 

   Another way that works but takes some time and a little f**ting around, adjust the work on the saw so you compensate for the slight tip the drywall is causing.  Then cut the mitre.  You can make the adjustment by adding a thin rip to the table to tip the long edge of the casing so it's cut as it will sit on the wall. 

   best of luck.

   __________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

3. 
   clampman2 | Mar 03, 2003 05:20am | #3

   TYoung,

   Since you are doing your casings piecemeal rather than pre assembling them as units, what Calvin says is the easiest way to do it. I am going to assume Calvin will not mind me elaborating for him, because I doubt you know exactly what he is saying.

   Look at the window. The rock sticks out by the jamb 1/4" on the left side and 1/8" on the right side. Place a 1/4 " thick shim at least a foot long parallel to the chop saw fence, touching the chop saw fence, on the bed of the saw. Set the left casing leg on top of it and cut a 45 degree angle on it to the proper length. Swing the saw to the other side, move the shim to the other side and cut the left side of head casing to exactly 45 degrees just like previously. Then do the same with right side of head casing and right leg, only replace the 1/4" shim with one 1/8" thick.

   Now take a battery operated skill saw with carbide teeth, put on your glasses, and cut (don't bang) out the rock to within 1/2 inch of the outside edge of the casing. The battery saw will have a slow foot speed and will create less dust than banging, less mess to clean, and will take one fifth the time.

   Now nail up your casings. You will notice that all the details will line up, since you cut all pieces on 45 degrees.

   Good luck,

   Clampman

1. 
   grumpy | Mar 03, 2003 03:17pm | #4

   hey thanks for the information i have tried the shim  trick a couple of times when the boss was away  but still had some trouble with the profile lining up  i will keep at it   thanks again   tyoung

1. 
   clampman2 | Mar 03, 2003 10:13pm | #5

   Ty,

   Your welcome. If your profile is not lining up using that method, the three most common reasons, in my opionion, are the following:

   The chop saw fence is out of allignment with the 45 degree detents or stops. This causes one side to cut an angle less than 45 and the other side to cut an angle greater than 45. The resultant angle will still be 90 degrees, but the details wont line up. Remedy - retune the fence.

   The left side of the chop saw fence, (especially if aluminum casting or extrusion) is bent inward from the stress of thousands of cuts. If stock spanning the hole between the two fences slides slightly into the blade as the cut is finished, this is the problem. Remedy - framing hammer to the back of the fence.

   Millwork. The millwork sat around too long before you got to use it. The ends have shrank up and are no longer as wide as the middle. Or the ends have taken on moisture and are wider than the middles. Or the millwork was from two different runs and has different moisture contents throughout or whatever. Remedy- check to see if the ends are the same width as the middles and if not, try to use to ends for door leg bottoms or window leg bottoms (if you are using stool and apron window treatment).

   Good luck

   Clampman

4. 
   r_ignacki | Mar 04, 2003 02:12am | #6

   got a belt sander?  Park it next to your chopsaw, for a little "fine tuning" the mitre fit.