Small bath and seriously thinking of having NO trim on the windows, just sheetrock. Question is, how is this done and any pros or cons
Let’s not confuse the issue with facts!
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J-bead around the sheetrock where it abuts the window jambs...caulk the joint between jambs and J-bead...
This is often done in the south with no jamb extensions and no casing. the rocker puts a cornerbead on and muds everything in. The sill is subject to more abuse so it is often done with wood or a manmade marble, sometimes tile
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Question is, how is this done and any pros or cons
Ok, so my first flippant answer to how is "poorly, most of the time."
But then, I spent many (too many) years living in rentals with sheetrock returns, too. I like the look of at least a sill.
You've already gotten the technical answer on "how," j-bead around the edge. The slightly tougher questions are how to finish the window jamb, and controling/correcting mud during the DW finishing process.
Windows will be 17" x 35" wide awning windows in a low slope shed bump out I'm building for a small upstairs bath, as such their bottom will be approximately 6' high, so a sill is not a concern. If I understand correctly, and this is something I'm looking to do for the first time, the J channel attaches to the stud beside the window unit so it's outside face is flush with the jamb edge? You then caulk between the finished rock and the jamb? Do you usually then paint the interior of the window to match the wall color if you are going for a 'clean look'. Sorry if I sound dumb, but like to make sure I understand correctly, wife is getting very picky after seeing the high end work I do for paying customers.Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
If this is in a bathroom, sills are very definitely a concern - or they will be after a couple years worth of condensation runs and puddles there and keeps the SR damp in the sill space.
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Did I mention the bottom of the windows would be about 6' up, not to mention the fact that we will now have widows, that we can open, and air the place out!Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
You mwentioned that, but you will not have the wiondows oppen al year and that height is perfect for warm moist air to sie to, and let us not ignore the fact that it is an ideal height to place all those various bottles of hair rinse, conditioner, etc., each dripping as it is set there.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
we do it a lot here where I'm at - here's the detail, and I like to finish the corners with bullnose cornerbead. I don't have any prejudice against it, because I see it used more often on large custom homes, esp. those with a Mediterranean or Spanish style architecture. If its done well, it looks clean.
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Edited 2/4/2005 5:14 pm ET by Huck
When finishing up to a wood jamb, I've used 5/8" L-metal trim, with a kerf cut in the jamb stock, as shown is the drawing..
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drywall returns ...
done all the time.
my 100+ year old house even has plaster returns in the upstairs.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
On the 'con' side, I think it can make a room look cheap. (That's because it IS cheap compared to real wood jambs, sill and casing.)
Before you proceed, consider matching or complimenting other trim in the room or adjacent rooms. You're only talking about a window or two, so it won't break the bank.
If you want a different look, think about using matching tile to create a frame around the window.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
Many thanx to all. Don't know how you include drawings but I sure appreciate it. One picture is worth a thousand words. Didn't mention there are going to be 4 35" wide units across, and it's going to be a shoehorn fit, 2:12 dormer pitch over 5 7/8:12 main pitch over less than 6' width, with code required 2x10's for rafters. Ergo not much room left for trim, which I personally would prefer, but feel the 'clean' lines of rock returns would be less 'busy'.
On the 5/8's L-metal scenario I assume you mud the outside and paint the inside. The kerf would do wonders to leave a fastidious finish, could earn me some brownie points with the missus. How would you do the kerfs, small diameter strianght cut router bit with edge guide on router?Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
L-metal trim is made to be mudded over on the nailing flange, and the other edge painted, as you say.
You could actually use a 1/2" L-metal trim and just set it on top of the jamb, without a kerf, but I kind of like "locking" it together with the kerf. I've seen pics of your work, and you're a lot more fastidious than me - myself I usually screw my circular saw up under my workbench and pin-nail a guide strip, then use it as an ad hoc table saw, but obviously any ol' way will work.
Just push your L-metal tight to the inside of the kerf as you nail it, and if its in a high moisture area, you could probably run a small bead of caulk in the kerf before installing the L-metal. It serves as kind of an expansion joint, and the detail leaves a small reveal not unlike a typical casing install..
Here's a slightly improved drawing, I tried to show the little ridge on the L-metal trim that serves as a "screed" for the drywall mud..
View Image
Ah, the devils' in the details. Nothing too good for the missus. Love the kerf idea, looking to order some small router bits, say a 1/16" and a 3/32", one of which aught to get me a nice fit with the L-metal corner bead. Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
We spend so much time and talent trimming out windows, and then, they are covered up with drapes and valences.Men come of age at sixty,
Women at fifteen.
James Stephens
Goo point!
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