My daughters house in Oklahoma built ca 1970 has aluminum frame windows (like DH but the top 1/2 don’t open). The interior has no trim except seat & stool. The dry wall was returned into the opening. The exterior is brick vineer which is set over the mounting flange of the windows again with no exterior trim. They want to improve heat/cooling performance and still open lower half for ventilation and I don’t see an easy solution short of cutting back the brick. Any thoughts?
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i have never done it, but some window replacement companies are measuring the opening from the outside from brick to brick, custom windows are made, when the new windows arive they remove the glass from the old windows and then force the frame out of the window opening, they then simply place the new window in place and screw or nail it to the studs through the window jamb, then caulk and go home, the down side is that you dont have the good seal around the window that you have with carful new construction, when you use window flashing, when you talk to these window replacement guys they say that as long as you dont have existing problems with moisture and water getting behind the brick you will be ok
Another option is to use what some vinyl window manufacturers call a stucco fin or overfit window. The fin is flush with the exterior of the block frame of the window. This enables you to leave the aluminum frame in place. After taking out the lower sash, upper glass and cutting out the center rail, you then use silicone caulking around the aluminum frame and set the new window. Use screws on the inside of window frame to secure the window to the rough opening.
The block frame of the vinyl window will be smaller than the aluminum window as it has to pass through the old window. Which means you will have to retrim the interior.
Hope that makes sense.
is there any difference between a window with a stucco fin and the fins on windows used for new construction
Yes, the difference is that the windows typically used for new construction have the nailing fins set back from the exterior face roughly 1 1/4". The stucco fins are flush with the exterior face.
Here are some links to drawings.
Stucco fin or as Milgard calls it Z-bar
http://pro.milgard.com/_doc/products/cad/pdf/8270-01-h_single-hung_tuscany.pdf
Standard fin placement
http://pro.milgard.com/_doc/products/cad/pdf/8220-01-h_single-hung_tuscany.pdf
I am just using Milgard as an example because I have installed a lot of their windows. I am sure other manufacturers have a similar set up.
as previously stated, you can order stucco fin retrofits. The outside flange can be cut down to almost a 1/2"-3/4" flange, just enough to cover the exterior aluminum flage. Chaulk the new flanges to the existing aluminum frames with good urethance adhesive caulk.
But, be careful that you don't reduce the egress requirements on bedrooms.
You can also turn them into sliders, single or double hung and casements, too.
Jimco,
I have been doing consulting with a local church on rehabing the existing structures that date to the turn of the last century and an addition that dates to 1956.
The 1956 addition is a masonry structure and had metal framed commercial windows typical of the 50's. They were obviously energy inefficient and in poor condition, therefore were replaced.
The contractor removed the operating sash, then removed the glass from the stationary sash and collapsed the steel frames into the vacant opening.
The vinyl IG replacement units were ordered from Tempco corp and they had no installation fins and were slid into the masonry openings and secured thru the vinyl frame with anchors and caulked with Vulcum 834. The interior finish requires some plaster patch, foam infill and white aluminum
fill trim bent to fit and installed with adhesive.
Single windows were about 40"x50' and numbered 33 and 12 of those were mulled into 4-triple units.
Your job is quite doable.....the local rep from a reputable window manufacturer is the gateway to success.
.........Iron Helix