I live in Georgia and recently paid off the mortgage on my 1979 ranch home. I’m now looking to make some much needed improvements. I’ll preface my window replacement question with the overarching improvement project: replacing the clapboard siding with brick veneer.
With that stated, I’m thinking now would be the ideal time to upgrade my double-hung wooden widows. The current windows are still functional for the most part. Several have been painted shut while a couple have rot damage at the sill. I realize there is a mentality to fix what’s there rather than replace. I’m also looking to improve the overall energy effeciency of the house (i.e. re-insulate and replace old HVAC system with a heat pump) and feel leaving the the current windows will have a counter effect on these improvements.
I prefer low maintenance, but would like to retain the wood finish on the interior. Most of my research, to date, has led me to believe wood interior/aluminum clad is the way to go.
So, several questions come to mind:
1. Which manufacturers should I consider. Window cost is a factor, but not the most important. I’m looking to get the most bang for my buck.
2. Determine if the level of difficulty involved in replacing the windows rules it out as a DIY project. While I’m not a complete novice, I wouldn’t categorize myself as a skilled professional.
3. What other concerns and gotchas should I watch out for that I haven’t considered.
If anyone has gone through this before and wouldn’t mind sharing your knowledge, I would really appreciate all the feedback I can get.
Thanks in advance!
Replies
Checkout the Marvin Integrity line. Fiberglass exterior construction, clear pine wood interiors, decently priced. Good value and performance.
http://www.integritywindows.com/
Thanks for the input regarding the Integrity line. I've already started my initial researching into the product and will definitely be including them as an alternative to solid wood and aluminum clad widows.
The other attractive aspect of the fiberglass is that you can paint them, where as that is not the case with vinyl or aluminum clad, and the paint will adhere better than to wood.
My only window expewrience is with Andersons, and I liked them.
I think that if you plan to replace the siding, then the window replacement would certainly qualify as a DIY project. I mean, you're gonna have the exterior wall opened up all the way anyway. All that's left is removing and replacing the interior trim.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
If you're going to replace the siding, definitely get siding and windows done at the same time by the same contractor. That way you have only one phone number to call if it leaks, and a much lower probability of needing to make that call.
-- J.S.
We're in ATL and went w/ Monarch for new windows/doors in an addition. They're available through lumber yards like PlyMart and Carolina Lumber here. Ours are wood interior and aluminum clad exterior. I probably didn't do as much research as I could have, but I was shooting for quality but not at a well-marketed price a la Anderson/Pella/Marvin/etc. I like them so far- the only quibble I have is that the transmissivity is lower than the low-e in some other brands. Another brand to consider is Windsor Legend w/ the cellular PVC exterior- a friend who's family does development likes these, though I think they're more expensive.
Another thing to consider is why not replace your clapboards w/ Hardi for a lower-maintenance exterior minus the potential problems of tying the new brick veneer into the existing exterior details?
And if energy efficiency is the goal, you might consider getting a blower door test and/or energy audit done for a few hundred bucks. We did this in advance of putting a new HVAC system in. You may find that, unless your existing windows are totally shot, the payback for the investment is too far off. And you'll likely find a lot of other improvements, along w/ correct HVAC sizing, that'll go a lot further to updating the energy efficiency of your home. That said, my plan is to eventually replace the vinyl that's on part of our house w/ Hardi, and I'll likely replace the rest of the windows then, so I get where you're coming from.
Thank you much for all your input.Regarding the comment about replacing the clapboard with Hardi, without going into too much detail, I've determined the cost would be more. How? Here's my simple arithmetic: Initial price (Hardiplank, labor, paint, etc) + cost of divorce settlement = wife spending divorce settlement to cover Hardi w/brick veneer.
LOL!
Can't fight city hall... and ya can't fight DW when she gets her mind set!
Now of course, if you get a quote for brick and a quote for hardie + a new jacuzzi (with the savings) she might be persueded....Ithaca, NY "10 square miles, surrounded by reality"
Any reasonably skilled DIYer who is willing to do some research can easily install replacement windows. Replacement windows are designed to fit within the frame of an existing window. You pull out the parting stops and sashes, then an entire assembly fits into the existing space. Really not hard at all.
If you are going to pull the siding off, you may consider a new construction window, as you have access to the face of the building. I believe a new construction window may be a bit less expensive. Hence the suggestion to have the siding contractor do the windows at the same time.
Thanks for your feedback!Because I'll plan on doing the majority of any DIY stuff as a one person show, I'm concerned whether there's adequate time to pull off all the old clapboard siding, fix any 'new' issues exposed by removing the old siding, and replace the windows/door without extending the project past a couple of weeks. I'm not looking to leave the outside uncovered for an extended period and prefer not to be the hold up for the brick masons, but I also figure some of the unexpected might happen.I'm estimating two days to remove the clapboard and address 'new' issues. I have approximately 14 windows, one three window unit I want to replace with a bay window and one sliding glass door I want to replace with French doors. I'm guessing that is at least three, probably four long days worth of work - maybe more. I also realize replacing the door will need an extra hand.Any idea if I'm missing the estimate completely and what else I might expect to encounter?
As a long term DIYer who tries to have the utmost respect for what I have yet to learn, I try to use the following method for estimating time:
Inventory the tasks
Carefully, conservatively estimate the time required for a given task, allowing for my DIYer level of endurance (which, regretably, is far less than it was 20 years ago).
Add time necessary for interruptions, meals, ect.
Carefully inventory and aquire all required materials and tools ahead of time. Then allow additional time in the job for the stuff I forgot to get in the previous sentence.
Total all these numbers
Add a 10% fudge factor for WTF.
Once I get this total, I double the number! This is the DIY equalization factor.
Using this estimating method, I am often able to complete the job within my time estimate.
I can't help you on the siding, as I have never done that. Regarding the previous poster who said with practice you can do a replacement window in 15 minutes; yes, but only if you don't insulate. I (carefully) use a lotta spray foam on all the openings and in the sash weight voids. Then I have to wait a day for the foam to dry b4 I can re-install the trim.
And I always ask myself, "Would we be better served if I gave this job to a pro?"
Hope this helps. Good luck.
I would recommend, based on my experience as a builder/remodelor, Pella replacement windows. The costs are not cheap but neither is any other quality manufacturer (Andersen, Marvin, etc.) But they install so easily. After you get the hang of it, you can replace a double hung unit in about 15 minutes. All you have to do is take off the stop molding and remove the sashes. The sill and casing are not distured, neither are the exterior moldings. Take a look at Pella, I have had good experiences with Pella in both new construction and remodels.
Chris Calhoun
Blackstone Builders
Douglas, GA
If you have old wavy glass, I recommend over hauling your existing windows and adding style appropriate storms. Over hauling involves removing the sashes, removing the glazing and glass, stripping all the finish from the windows and the window frames, priming, glazing and painting the sashes, painting the frames.
Several companies make appropriate storm windows, or you can make your own.
If you get double paned glass, the seal will eventually fail.
As some have pointed out, replacement sash/jamb liner kits as opposed to the entire window unit can be a good choice. As long as your jambs, molding etc. are in good shape, poping in kits is quick as someone else mentioned. However, kits are not much cheaper than the whole window unit - the savings is the time for each window compared to replacing and entire window unit.
My experience is with Jeld-Wen Zap Packs - I used wooden sash inside and out because it is an old home - they also come aluminum clad. Jeld-Wen low e windows come with Argon as a standard feature.
One thing to consider - virtually all new windows come with plastic jamb liners and some variation of a spring support system. I yet to find a window, don't care which brand - from Kolbe to Anderson to whoever - where the window glides up and dowm effortlessly - just using your pinky. And does it on a continuous basis. Well tuned weight balanced sash with chains can do that, but they cost a fortune!
> As long as your jambs, molding etc. are in good shape, poping in kits is quick ....
The critical thing is whether the existing jambs are properly flashed to the water barrier behind the siding. If the rot is being caused by leakage there, popping in replacement type windows will be a wasted effort.
-- J.S.
You are correct - integrity of the frame is critical if you use kits.
I'd have a hard time recommending replacement, as opposed to new construction, windows in this situation. You mention that some sills are damaged, and I assume all the existing windows were installed alike, so it's quite likely that there's hidden damage on the others as well. Don't believe a window salesman who says it's just fine to wrap the damaged part in aluminum or vinyl. Also, replacements inevitably sacrifice some glazing area. I've watched salesmen claim with a straight face that it's "only about 1/8" when my tape clearly read 2-1/2"!
I concur with TGNY on the quality & decent value of the Marvin Integrity line, and am a big fan of fiberglass frames. Aside from paintability, strength, and excellent insulating properties, it's important to note that fiberglass has a rate of thermal expansion very close to that of the glazing, potentially relieving the seals from a great deal of stress. I've used Fibertec from Ontario with great success.
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