I am about to order several new wood alum clad windows that are going into a brick vener wall with wood framing on the inside. My plan is to order the windows to be 1/4 inch smaller on all sides (accouting for levelness). Yet, it seems that most window manufactures spec smaller windows for masonary openings than standard wood framing. Why? My plan will allow maximum window size and all I need to do is caulk the 1/4 gap for a tight seal. I assume wood windows don’t expand that much once properly sealed, but maybe I’m wrong.
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A few questions:
Are these replacment windows?
New const. brick not installed yet?
Window "people" look in a book and give you stsndard sizes that they make.
You may have to special order
I'm pretty sure that the shim space in a masonry opening is larger because masonry is much more rigid than wood, for example. If the foundation should settle or the building hit with seismic or wind loads forcing the wall to rack, the windows might break like a nutshell in a nutcracker.
Plus, although most masons are infallible, if an opening is not sized just right, they are much more difficult to tweak once built.
Thanks for the responses. To answer the questions. I am installing new constuction without a nail fin. They will be custom sized.I carefully checked the level and plumb of ever side of each opening and adjusted the window size to ensure my 1/4 inch is the minimum space. The house was built in the 50s, so hopefully its done settling. Do folks think I'm taking a real risk with just a 1/4 gap?
If the opening is level/plumb, 1/4" should be plenty. Masonry movement on the order of 1/4" per side and you have problems beyond your windows.
On the other hand, I had a couple of windows put in a masonry building last fall and had a slight communication problem with the guys cutting the holes (I don't speak spanish and they didn't speak english very well -- drew them a picture with dimensions and went off to another job). At one point when I returned to see what they were up to, they were using a large hammer to pound the window unit into the bucks. I just winced and left. When I came back again, the window was in and it operated perfectly, so fine.
Moral of the story, already been stated, masonry does not tweak, move or forgive. If you are sure your measurements are right, have at it. If not, leave some room to maneuver.
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I've set many custom sized wood/clad window units in brick veneer and have used both the Pella and Marvin mounting clips to fasten the unit to the wood framing. All of these remodels had plaster returns and marble sills. On some I would remove the plaster corner bead, others just the return plaster, leaving the bead. The clips then were cut short of the bead and screwed to the framing. In most cases, the returns were then remudded. On some the interior opening was so wide I had to use a cove moulding to finish.
Use Urethane caulk on the brick to wood/cladding as it adheres to both the masonry and window well, not separating with the movement of the window.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
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