Looking for help.
I am building our new house and winter has hit before I was ready, I am told if I install the fiberglass shingles that i bought that they will not adhere properly and I will lose a lot to the winds and winter weather.
Is there any ideas what to use for the winter? can I just use ice and watershield over the hole roof?
The house is located in northern Ontario Canada, it has a 12-12 pitch with 4 dormers.
Thanks
Shaun
Replies
Haven't roofed in Canada, but I've roofed in pretty cold conditions in New England, and usually they'l stick with a few days of sunshine, even when it's cold.
Thanks for the quick response and ideas.
I talked to a local building supply store and they are recommending a product called Titanium UDL, has anyone else tried this? Here is the website for the product http://www.interwrap.comtitanium
I am told due to our weather (bitter cold and tons of snow) any of the stick on products will not adhere and yes I built the house on top of a hill over looking the lake so we get lots of wind.
Thanks again
Shaun / Grader
Very good product, have seen it in action and had my own roof temped with it for over 6 months, it holds up well, is not slick, and a roll goes far.
Use button cap nails, no staples.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Sphere---we have been putting on titanium UDL with a button cap stapler for a couple of months now---not an air tool, but a slapjack sort of thing-----very efficient.
I have a button cap air nailer-------which will probably only see the light of day maybe once a year from now on.
Stephen
I was meaning what is printed on the UDL for one thing , I THINK it referrs to plain staples. Now, MY exp. is the staplecaps from my air-bostitch work just fine, BUT, NOT for LONG term exp.
The green or other orange caps (with hand nails) don't sun rot as fast.
Sorry if I was adding confusion. When they say no staples they mean plain swing tackers I think, when I said no staples, I was repeating that. For short term exposure, I think the gun I use is fine, I've R&R'd soem areas, and they hold fine, and the staples don't rust as soon as I had feared.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Stephen - the problem I've seen is the stapler caps are thinner than the nail caps (might be brand specific) and if left exposed for a while, the caps break down and come off the staples. And it says "no staples" (or the universal sign for "no staples") about every three feet on Titanium UDL and shows a drawing of a plastic cap with a nail. I've taken that to mean not to use staples by themselves, but it's a moot point because we don't use any staples for anything on the roof.http://grantlogan.net/
It takes a big man to cry, but it takes a bigger man to laugh at that man. - J. Handey
You are right. The ones I had exposed on sidewall tarpaper have faded and disintegrated in less than a yr. Just the Bostitch.
Hand drive nails, have held up.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
generally-------I don't have the titanium udl exposed to the elements for more than 3 or 4 hours------but I DID go as far this spring as to risk leaving it exposed on a 14 square garage roof overnight.( that garage pre-dates me having the button cap slap jack---so the titanium Udl was installed with a hitachi button cap air nailer)
I have MANY times put it down with just regular slap jack staples and immediately shingled over it----but I don't think i would leave exposed over night that way----pretty sure a decent wind would cause the satples to cut right through it.
Stephen
Often, when we're doing a copper roof it may set open for several months. One job we did several years ago was "dried" in by the framers using a cap stapler. almost every cap UV deteriorated and popped off the staple.
Seems like we always get the big jobs just right before bad weather sets in. http://grantlogan.net/
It takes a big man to cry, but it takes a bigger man to laugh at that man. - J. Handey
Thanks to everyone for the advice.
I am going to use the UDL on the roof and keep the shingles until the spring.
Shaun / Grader
I just finished putting shingles on my roof on Thursday. Most days were in the 20s, with some mornings at zero degrees. I had an 8' pallet propped on two 4' pallets over a wood stove in the yard and preheated the shingles that way. I won't be doing the cap shingles until spring since those need to bend so much. My roof is also 12:12. It would take a pretty big wind to lift any shingles...especially since there is now over a foot of snow on them! Now I can work in a dry (if not cold) house as soon as I can finish installing the windows.
I put on sythetic underlayment on one very small roof today. We are supposed to get snow tonight and sat. Of course I didn't do it like you are supposed to. Badges, we don't need no stink'n badges ;^ )
I have seen it and would use it as well. My first recommendation is what is available here.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
If you are in a cold climate, any shingle you put on the north side of the house will not stick until next summer, and would not if you had put it on this last fall. If you nail the shingles on properly, it is unlikely that you will have a problem at all. The greater difficulty will be in putting the shingles on if you get a lot of snow and ice. Good for skiing but not so good for roofing. Good luck whatever you do.
They will be fine unless you have some extreme wind exposure.
Be sure the roofer(yourself or others) nail in the proper location right across the top of the tabs. No big arcs of nails sprayed all over the top half of the shingle. Proper nail location nails through the new shingle and the row below.
A little mastic dot under the tabs on the windy edge helps too.
Keep a bundle or two incase you have a big storm sometime in the future.
Garett
One tip for roofing in the cold-
leave several bundles of shingles somewhere warm, for when you have to cut or bend them ( starters, valleys, caps).
They'll be much easier to work with. Plus it's nice to get down off that cold, cold roof, even for a few minutes.
Good luck with the project.
Edited 12/2/2007 4:11 pm ET by Shep
Ice and water shield will work, but will be expensive.
And could be more dangerous to work on, not that you'd be trying to walk a 12/12.
I dry in with RooftopgaurdII which is a synthetic underlayment. I've had it on a couple roofs for five months over winter with no tear off by wind. They even warrant it not to blow off if you nail per their schedule.
It is not impossible to shingle in winter though, but it is true that you might have to replace a few shingles later for lack of sealdown tack.
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
I second what Piffin said. Put on the synthetic underlayment. It's a better underlayment and will be fine till spring.
we roof year round in the GTA,
fiberglass shingles will be brittle in the cold,as another poster has said,keep the caps,and shingles that will have to bend inside .
cold caps will split .
a light plastic tarp tacked on over the exposed deck will easily shed snow.
< in the GTA>
'zat Grand Theft Auto?
Forrest
greater toronto area
OK, I scratched my head and it didn't help.What is a GTA?Greater Tall Anthilles?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
we are just finishing up a 90sq roof. we used BP fiberglass shingles. it's been pretty cold and we haven't had any trouble. but most of the valleys were open. unless there is a valley more than a 12 pitch you should be fine, if there is than keep some shingles in a warm place like someone suggested. good luck
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