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wodd floor question

| Posted in Construction Techniques on February 6, 2005 08:35am

Hi, I am new to this forum, but have been told this is the place to ask this question.

I am a 20 year veteran of finish carpentry, but do not install wood flooring very often. I have been asked to install 7k feet of reclaimed heartpine flooring. The planks are 3, 5, and 7 inches and will be machined by a local shop.Here is the problem: The client insists that the flooring be 100% glued in place. There will be no felt paper between the flooring and the plywood subfloor. This application is not negotiable, so I need any information on how to best proceed.

Any info / products would be appreciated.

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  1. IanDG | Feb 06, 2005 09:32pm | #1

    The best way is to use a polyurethane glue -- Bostik's Best is good -- spread with a 1/8" notched trowel and blind nail to hold it while the glue sets.

    I would acclimatise it in the area, at the final temperature and humidity, for at least 10 days before fixing with flooring at those widths.

    IanDG

  2. Piffin | Feb 06, 2005 09:46pm | #2

    Iagree with Ian on the glue type. Don't get worried about the glue instead of paper. It will prevent sqeaks for you and help hold those wider ones. As I read the first couple lines of your post, I was ghetting ready to recommend glue on this. It will take you longer to lay this with glue than with out though. The customer is probably paying close to ten bucks a foot for the stuff, depending on what cut he is buying, and there ain't any more a-growing, so it deserves respect.

    For reclaimed heart pine, be ready to study each piece as you use it. I would expect to find some split/splinters in it, that will require culling out or glueing with Titebond as you use it. Not good to find the slivers in somebodies foot later. How much will depend on the mill and how well they do.

    Whoever does the sanding/finishing should be preared to spend two or three times as much on paper grits. The resins will gum up the grit faster than oak or birch. there again, thequality of the milling is important. Good fits at the T&G top plane will reduce the amt. of sanding needed.

     

     

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  3. andybuildz | Feb 06, 2005 11:09pm | #3

    I used PL Premium over a year ago with zero problems and the changes in humidity have been vast.

    I tried red rosin and felt upstairs to see for myself how it compares over time.

     

    The PL aint cheap though

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  4. Chipper | Feb 07, 2005 01:07am | #4

    I would consult the fellas at the shop that will be milling the flooring,  they will work each piece and be able to give you the soundest advice after examining each board.  Then maybe set up a consultation meeting with clients, yourself, & shop fellows.  Determine if bottom side of boards need relief cuts......, rift sawn, quartersawn, combination....................  use the best method, you are the professional.  20years of experience entitles you to advise & walk clients through the process.  Educate them on the best installation techniques & WHY!

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