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Need to run some wood base in a new house that has round cornerbead on the walls. Cutting 22-1/2* angles is easy enough, but I have two questions:
1. Where do you end the main pieces? In this case it will be 3/4″ x 5″ material. Don’t know the radius of the bead, it’s the white plastic stuff.
2. How do you cut the little filler pieces? I’d like to keep all my fingers intact at the end of the job.
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Do you have issue #90 of FHB. See link.
< Obsolete Link > Ralph Wicklund "curved baseboard corners (wood)" 2/18/02 12:52am
*Lay your square over an outside corner. Measure the clear gap with your tape at a 45 with the edge touching the radius. About 1/2 inch or so. That's the length of the backside of the base between the two opposing 22 1/2 degree cuts.Make two like this and attach them to a 4 inch scrap piece of base with an opposing 22 1/2 cut to make two templates. One right and one left.Use them as a guide to mark and cut your long pieces.Not high tech but it works in a pinch.GabeQuestion 2. Just cut the small pieces off longer stock.
*My hardwood yard has round pieces of base made for rounded corner bead. You attach it to the rounded edge bead then butt the rest of the base to it.
*Ron & Ralph, it looks like you are both proposing a radiused piece of wood. Nice idea, but it won't work here. The house is being fitted with slavaged douglas fir floors, window sill & aprons, 5" base, balcony handrails & balusters, stair treads & risers. The lady wants the base corners cut from the same material as the main pieces, which are almost flat except for a 1/2" profile on the top edge. So Gabe is on the right track. Gabe, when I try to cut the small pieces, they tend to get thrown around by the blade. And I'm not comfortable holding them with my fingers.
*I recall reading that someone had a trick involving a rubber band to keep the small piece from flying away. CRS beyond that. Maybe someone else will recall details. Time to get out the Tips and Techniques section.
*Ed,Assuming that you're using a power mitre saw and you're right handed.Using a 2 foot long piece of base, holding it with your left hand against the back plate, you make the first cut with the saw angled at 22 1/2 to the right. Make your cut. Turn the blade to the left marking of 22 1/2, slide the piece along so that you're blade is lined up with the outside edge of your half inch or so mark and make your cut.Every once in a while, yes you're going to lose one but nothing will come of it. Flip you blade back to square one , trim off the end to give you the right angle again and repeat untill you have a bunch of them ready cut.The safest way to use these saws and keep your fingers is to either use one of the optional claps that come with some models or buy a quick release plastic clamp and use it instead of your fingers.Gabe
*Just cut it most of the way with the miter saw, and then finish the cut with a sharksaw.
*ED:Gabes template idea is what we ususlly use. We find that the short point to short point of the little corner pieces tends to be around 3/4" plus or minus 1/16". Corners will vary through out the house but a little experimentation will determine a good size. We mass produce the little corners by keeping the saw fixed to one side and flipping the material. There are a few ways to do this. One way is with the mitre saw swung right; make the first 22.5 cut with the material right side up, this will be the right side of the corner piece. Keep the saw in the same position, turn the baseboard up side down, slide the material to the right to a pre-determined position and make the second cut which is the left side of the corner. Turn the material back right side up and freshen the end which is the right side of the next piece. Is this making any sence? You can just keep feeding to a mark, flipping and cutting until you have a whole pouch full of the little corner pieces. Don't even try to hold the little pieces on the saw. You should be able to keep both hands a foot away from the blade. Some blades catch more than others. We have some medium level Freud blades that tend to catch and some Makita brand blades that don't. You might experiment with rubber bands or a vaccum if your blade tends to kick. I find that holding the blade down until it stops reduced the flying pieces.It is also a good idea to carry a few over-sided and a few under-sized pieces with you when you nail.
*Ed is there anyway you can make a cove on your ts to fit the radius out of the same mat'l the floor is made from?
*Thinking outside that miter box:#1: Glue up four pieces with craft paper parting line, turn the profile on the lathe (doesn't have to be the same as the base, BTW), drill the hole in the center of the same radius to match the bead, and split apart. Four radiused corners at once and you can butt the base to it with a 90*. I did a similar procedure for the interior corners for a house with 8" base. In production mode, it goes pretty fast and it's lots prettier!#2: using square stock of any length, rout out one corner with a cove cutter on a shaper to match the radius of the bead; cut off lengths as you need them, shaping the top edge however. (Who said the outside radius had to be a radius?)
*I'll try Gabe's style. Got plenty of scraps, so if I work slowly I should be able to cut 100 and find 50. You're right about keeping the blade down until it stops, that does tend to help.Ron & Splintie - it would take 1-1/2" stock to make the required size, and I'm not sure I have that. More importantkly, the customer is very opinionated about what she wants, and she wants the same profile. Right or wrong, it's her house. Also, I don't have a lathe. Personally, the idea of a modified plinth block is appealing, but it won't fly here.
*Ed, I will at times mount (lodge) a paper deflector behind the fence that at least stops those pcs from flying too far or dropping down into the debris pile. Being paper, not much chance of ricochet.
*Ralph, If you haven't found it yet, I have used the rubber band trick several times making returns for aprons. You make your first cut, then masking tape one end of a rubber band to the end of the board which will become the small piece. Tape the other end of the rubber band to the base of the saw, with a little tension on it (you don't need much). Make your cut. When the blade goes thru the piece, the rubber band pulls it away so it can't catch on the teeth. Works like a charm. Hope this helps. Rich.