I’m going to be putting in a interior wood floor over a concrete
slab (typical Arizona house construction) and need some feedback
on the types. I know I can lay down a ply base and go over it with
traditional solid TG strips (finished or unfinished). But I’m
curious about the glue-down types of flooring. I know there’s an
engineered veneer flooring (real wood) and I recently read about
a solid product (5/16″ and 7/16″) which advertises that it can be
glued down. Can anyone give me advise on these 3 types as to their
pros and cons? Oh, and also prefinished vs. unfinished?
many thanks,
glenn
Replies
If you dont want to put down sleepers and a ply sub floor look into a "floating floor".
I've done many of them incluing Pergo (sorry, wasnt for me).
The nicest floating floor I did for myself was big french (sorry again...lol) oak parquet tiles that I ordered straight from France.
Each tile gets glued to each other in the T&G's.
Look into it...sounds like it may be right up your alley
BE floating or floored
Namaste
andy
"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is."
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Andy,
Thanks for your response on flooring. Have you any observations
on solid vs. engineered? In my orig post I mentioned solids that
were specifically for glue down or floating. I know some folks
who were unhappy with the durability of engineered. One in particular
had Pergo and a contractors step ladder went through the top surface.
You've made me curious about floating. My uncle had a floating wood
floor over radiant heating but I don't know much about the pros/cons.
Is it easier to install for a DIYer than glue down?
thx
glenn
" I know some folks who were unhappy with the durability of engineered. One in particular had Pergo and a contractors step ladder went through the top surface."
But Pergo is not an engineered wood floor.
There is no wood in it.
BTW, for a ladder to go through the surface of either a laminate floor or an engineered wood floor there has to be a defective product in the first place or miss installed so that it is not flat on the floor.
Bill,
Your response contained very good information. But can you
help me with my original question? If I was to float a floor
what are, in your experience, the pros/cons of engineered vs.
solid? Is floating preferred to glue-down?
Any advise appreciated.
thx
glenn
Sorry I don't know.
I am in the same boat, but I am just in the thinking stage now so I watching all these kind of questions to collect information.
I would try asking here;
http://www.hoskinghardwood.com/forum/
I think he means it just scrapped the "picture" that looks like wood. Same thing happened with my Armstrong flooring.
If your slab is below grade, do not install solid material. Any solid material does not do well with glue, can have tremdous lift up in movement.
Floating engineered floors are excellent for over flat level concrete above or below grade, and/or radiant. Manufacturer can give specs. for install.
Glued engineered boards can be used in some cases, but remember, anything direct on concrete will be hard to walk/stand on, floating floors are a bit more forgiving, even on flat level concrete.
Glues on radiant heat can become brittle in time and can fail to hold.
Prefinished or not , personal choice. unfinished solid is traditional, unfinished engineered is already sanded, is designed for finish grit and/or buffing. Traditional prefinished c/w micro bevel for ease of installation, which will not be there after sandings. Remember the only working depth you have is 1/8 above the tongue on any t&g.
So, it's whatever Floats your boat!
I installed about 800 sf feet of engineered plank floor in a walk out basement in Boise and the customer really likes it. It is in a wide hall three bedrooms a wide hall and family room.
A 6mil vapor barrier is a must followed by the foam pad. or a pad inculding the vapor barrier. They take good care of it, they and company always take off their shoes in the house.
I have it in my house it is nailed down here, but it does not like water. Two months ago the presure relief valve on our water heater went bad it is behind the living room wall in the garage. It must of been going for an hour plus, the garage floor was covered, the water also splashed on the heater platform. Now two months later the area in the living room oppisite the heater is delaminating. It must of went under the wall into the living room between the sub floor and the engineered floor. That is why you have insurance I guess.
Also the folks above had their dishwasher leak it did the same under the floor between the sub floor. They did not know it was happening replaced 50sf for them.
All in all solid wood is better we did not do it because of the sanding and did not want to more out for a month. Solid wood will still get damaged by water but not to the point of breaking down. It will cup and if you get to it with fans fast enough to dry it out it will minimize the cupping. Solid also does not dent as easy.
Don't get me wrong both have thier place in your case I would probably look into engineered some more, also if you went solid do you have room to build up an inch and a half.
Glenn,
Problem with glue-down is the fact that slabs aren't level. Go with the floating.
I have seen some prefinished, engineered that appeared thick enough to refinish....at least once or twice. Then some looked so cheesy that you might as well have pergo. So, it probably boils down to the old "you get what you pay for".
Have you talked to the suppliers there? They probably have an opinion about what works the best in AZ.
ShelleyinNM
Glenn,
It comes down to wood movement. Perhaps potential wood movement would be more appropriate.
A solid strip of hardwood will, in theory, expand and contract more than an engineered, or ply-structure, piece of wood.
Nails accomodate uneven movement better than glue. When you take the entire platform into consideration, nails even tolerate larger amounts of movement better than floating floors. Thus, glue-downs and floating floors are more common with engineered flooring than with Mother Nature's solid wood. Engineered flooring moves less, and wen it does, it's movement is predictable across the entire floor. Real wood moves more, and it's movement may not be as consistent from one board to another due to variations in flatsawn/quartersawn/vertical grain.
If you glue, use Bostik's Best urethane adhesive.
Do NOT install a floating floor until you've walked on a few. The aesthetic can take some getting used to. Not all floating floors are the same, so experience the same type that you are considering installing befoore yoou proceed.
In AZ you have an arid environment and central AC wll be part of the package. At least that was the way it was when I ived iin Tucson. Climate control will miinimmize wood (solid or engineered) movement, that's a point in your favor.
Some pre-finished engineered floors have very durable Aluminum Oxide coatings. A good pre-finished floor will save you time and money.