Replies

1. 
   steve_o_ | Jul 04, 2000 01:06am | #7

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   I currently have a house in southern California with 3/4 oak flooring glued down on concrete with a moisture barrier. Over the years the floor has moved to the point where there are lots of gaps of 1/16 to 1/8.

   I am building a new house in the same area and am thinking this time I'll lay down a plywood sub floor over the concrete and nail the 3/4 oak to the plywood.

   Anyone done this and does it help prevent the floor from developing cracks? Also, would you glue the sub floor down or let it float?

   Thanks in advance for any comments.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 04, 2000 02:25am | #8

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   I've done this with a vapor barrier over the concrete, (use tu-tuff) and then 2 layers of subfloor, staggered seams, and best if you play the second layer at a 45 to the first.

   steve

3. 
   steve_o_ | Jul 05, 2000 07:34pm | #9

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   Steve G

   Thanks for the reply. Did you use two layers of 3/4" thick plywood subfloor and did you glue and nail the two layers together?

   Thanks

4. 
   Guest_ | Jul 05, 2000 07:35pm | #10

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   Hey y'all

   I've got a problem with some wood flooring in my house. We had a lot of water all over the floor a month or so ago and the flooring in that area is cupped badly. Any thoughts on how to fix it? I could always sand it flat again and refinish it but I just installed it 2 years ago. I'm also concerned about it flattening back out after I sand it. Any help would be apreciated.

   Jeremiah Ember
   North Country Custom Cabinets

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 30, 2000 03:50am | #1

   *Jeremiah,Methinks you might be screwed. It probably will shrink but not settle down. What kind of floor, thinckness, and method it was put down? Maybe it will help get you a miraculous opinion.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 30, 2000 05:57am | #2

   *b TVMDCThere was another discussion about exterior decking and warping here.But you can also check this website for exactly what you're faced with.Good luck.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 30, 2000 06:45am | #3

   *Our dishwasher flooded our maple floor about a year after we moved in. The 80 year old guy who sanded and finished it worked in the hardwood floor business all his life. He advised against sanding the cups out of it, said he'd seen them lay right back down after a few months. We were impatient and had him do it anyway. A few months later, when the wood dried out, we noticed a reverse cup as the boards did indeed lay back down. Sure wish we had listened to that guy.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 30, 2000 07:05am | #4

   *I'd agree. We listened to our floor guy...and they flattened back down. It was a Glitsa finish, so the cracks between boards hardly show. Now, with all the other motion in other areas, it is not discernable.Adam

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 01, 2000 01:51am | #5

   *I agree, leave it alone to dry out. You can help it along if possible by placing a small milk room heater under the floor and let it run. The heat and air movement will help dry out the subfloor and the finish floor from both sides. It may well take several months. Then you can resand the floor as you would in a refinish and refinish.Walk good, david

3. 
   J._Erber | Jul 01, 2000 10:18pm | #6

   *Thanks for your advise guys. That's what I was hoping to hear. (I really didn't want to sand it again) Jeremiah Erber