OK, so I’ve decided to make custom windows for my bungalow renovation. I am working out the drawings right now and hope to build a prototype or two over the next few months before starting production in the fall.
I’ve got the tools needed and feel I have the wood working skills to take on this project, although I am sure questions will arise during the prototype phase.
My question for now is – What species of wood should I use?
The existing 90 year old windows are all vertical grain Doug fir. As I undersatand it, today’s Doug fir doesn’t compare to the old growth stuff and may not be ideal for windows today. But I am looking to match the look of the existing trim.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Replies
Several dealers offer reclaimed lumber, from sunken logs, old barns etc. The ads in FHB might help. If it'll be painted it doesn't make a difference; good choices are redwood,cedar, old-growth pine.
No paint. The inside will get stained and a coat of dark garnet shellac to match the existing. I have mixed up a good match to all the existing stuff.
Outsides will get a coat of solid stain to coordinate withg the new cedar siding thats to come.
your suggestion on using reclaimed old growth is a great idea. I'll look around.
Edited 6/3/2004 3:26 pm ET by pino
Edited 6/3/2004 3:27 pm ET by pino
I like to use cypress, or chestnut for the old thin muntin type windows. Both are easy to work, stable and somewhat historic. My log place here (what few windows are salvageable) look to be poplar. Poplar doesn't even comeclose to looking like DF.
I'd scrounge around and ask for some old demo wood there's plenty out there..if it's all recycled it's pricey, if ya DIY it, sometimes free. ANY old pine would be good, it was slower grown back then..I've got a lot from old rafters and such..NFS tho' I need it too..
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
i am in Indiana and someone suggested I look for some old Indiana Red pine. Now I have never even heard of Red pine, but they claim that my floors are made of the stuff and that it was used in windows at the turn of te century.
I will try to get an off cut of cypress from a local mill and see how it stains up to match the existing.
I've got the time to experiment and get this right. I am really looking forward to making my own custom windows, in spite of the fact that my neighbors all think I am nuts.
they are not that hard. An 'average' wood worker can do it, I have done it by both hand planes and router/shaper cutters. Just basic ww'ing skills.
In your case, the material will be harder to locate, then the actual constructing. I doubt if an Indiana sawmill would have any cypress..it grows WAY down south. A HARDWOOD Supplier may have some in stock tho'..easy to get in 8/4 and up.
Gennet Lumber in Asheville,NC is a start..if they ship.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
I use a mill in Michigan with a location about an hour from me. While I doubt they actually mill the Cypress themselves, they do keep it in stock.
I don't know if I've ever seen Cypress, so I'll have to grab a cut off and take a look.
FWIW, I plan on using a router table for these windows. I don't own any moulding planes and I am intimidated by the use of hand planes in general, beyond the use of a basic block and shoulder plane.
I'm curious, would you suggest mortise and tenoning the muntins into the rails and stiles or would you dowel 'em. Seems like doweling would be tough on that small a profile, but I had a local guy suggest that this might be an easier and more forgiving approach.
I have both set ups.
definatly M&T..dowels are not a lot of fun, small stock an all. For the stiles I through mortice, and wedge. The though mortice means ya dont have to clean th bottom out..just come at it from both sides..elongate the out edge and saw kerf the tennon and make thin wedges to pound in..ya don't even need glue.
The mullions and muntins are half lapped at the intersection, with a masons miter on the profile or coped..where they meet the stiles and rails, I use a stub tennon..maybe an inch or less. That gets glue. Just plain ol yellow titebond.
My windows here are strange, no glazing compound..bevelled glass stops. I never saw that before.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Thanks. You just confirmed that which I read last night. My wife tracked down an old Tauton book at our libray on windows and doors and they described the exact same procedure you did.
I managed to grab an old casement and double hung from my dad when he replaced some windows at his place. Figured I would disassemble them to get a good look at how they were done long ago.
> My windows here are strange, no glazing compound..bevelled glass stops. I never saw that before.
You might want to get some catalogs from:
Resource Conservation Technology Inc2633 N Calvert StreetBaltimore MD 21218USA
telephone: 410-366-1146telefax: 410-366-1202
Their GG-05 glazing gasket material is designed for that kind of application.
-- J.S.
Gee, John..Thank you. That was real kind of you. Yup, I seen a fair amount of windows..but these were new to me..old suckers..no ropes an pullies..just plain ol double hung..with the glass all wavy..nailed on stops..
copied and pasted in my "to buy or get" folder..Thanks again..
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.