Wood sidewall shingles, what do you nail them with? My bostitch coil siding nailer uses .090 ring shanks, can I use those?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Source control, ventilation, and filtration are the keys to healthy indoor air quality. Dehumidification is important too.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Yup. Dipped Galvy.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Thanks
Galvanized staples, air fired.
You've obviously never replaced a section or repaired a stapled up job huh? They hold great, too great.
AND, they won't work in the OP's siding NAILER.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
You've obviously never replaced a section or repaired a stapled up job huh?
Sphere,
I am by no means an expert when it comes to wood shingles, but I found out how hard it was to try to repair a stapled shingle job last year. I was so frustrated that I decided to buy a nail gun rather than attach the addition shingles with staples. Staples are a PITA.
You cannot convey tone in an email.
No I have not encountered staples in a repair. And in the original post he asked "What do you use" and staples was my answer. By the way I have a friend who is an exterior sideing and trim contractor very high end homes, will ONLY HAND NAIL, the shakes. Also have a roofing contractor that still hand nails the shingles, so there...........
staples good way to ruin a cedar job
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Can you expand on that statement? Have used the stapler for the past few years, only on repairs. Seems to have worked fine.
Stapling shingles almost always crushes the wood fibers under the crown of the staple, leading to premature failure. Air nailers aren't perfect either but at least there's only one point of contact. Best way is to hand-nail, just snugging the head against the shingle, but that's not realistic on most jobs. Air nailer with the pressure or depth adjustment set "light" is the best way to give the shingle a chance at staying on the wall without cracking. It also gives the next carpenter a better chance at fixing repairs.
I always hand nailed, up until maybe 3yrs ago, then started stapeling, repair work only. Thanks for your input.
staples break into the wood fibres so the cedar fails at those points prematurely. study th e literature on nailing from the cedar shingle institute with their drawings showing how to set nails without damaging the wood fibres and you will see how it is impossible to accomplish the same with staples. You do your customers a dis-service by stapling them if they want a high quality long lasting job. if all they want is tract house budget work for quick re-sale and fast production, you are giving them exactly what they are looking for.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
OK. no staples, but what about the hand vs. air issue? I'm thinking that an air gun might speed up what is a very slow process.Feels like fall here.
I am an old hand-nailman. Still do on most cedars. But pneumatics have come along ways since I started shingling. Mike Smith and others have named some good nailers with adjustables to keep the right drive depth.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I've done my share of shingling, red and white cedar, hand nailing and gun, hot dip and stainless in coastal Massachusetts. I have found that staples are best if properly set. I use a Hitachi N5008AC 7/16 crown with stainless staples. The shanks of the staples are much finer than nails and do not split the shingle like nails do. Shingles often split later, even months later, at the nail. I have not seen this with staples.
The Hitachi N5008AC has a very nice depth adjustment which works really well. I also have a Hitachi NV65AH Coil nailer, which I have used for shingling, but the depth of drive adjustment is not as reliable as the stapler. With the Hitachi stapler it is easy to reliably fire staples and never crush the cedar under the crown. Nice and light and fast, never jams, no double fire---no bad habits.There is no question the staples are harder to remove.The Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau specifically allows staples and does not suggest a preference of nails over staples. Personally, I think stainless staples make for a superior job if properly driven.Dick
I have also stapled a lot of shingles with no problem. Many are on my own house so I see them every day. My stapler very easily adjusts to avoid crushing the fibers, it sets the bar right on top of the shingle as long as you learn the wrist action, which takes about 10 staples or less.
The main issue re staples is that if you use galvanized staples they are ELECTRO galv'd and may very well bleed with red cedar. The risk goes up to 100% if you use run of the mill soaking wet cedar shingles, which are hugely prevalent around here. If you staple, use stainless. If you nail, you can use hot dip nails.
I've only ever seen staple guns on jobs. I'm not saying that they are better, but I rarely ever even seen sheathing nails set properly. Most good air guns have a little lever on the side called a depth adjuster. Call the shingle manufacterer. Use whatever fastener that you need to keep your warranty.
cedars do NOT split at the nail when the right nail is driven the right way.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Thanks for your feedback, thoughts on the subject.