Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 30, 2000 06:33pm | #1

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   I don't think you have to do anything. It is standard practice to not cap a wall with solid block, unless it is a knee wall that has nothing built on top of it. Just go about the finishing.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 30, 2000 10:42pm | #2

   *If termites are a problem where you are, capping the block won't keep them out. Get an exterminator to treat the ground.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 30, 2000 10:54pm | #3

   *It is standard practice here (central NJ) to use a solid block top course or grout solid under plates for just the reason you mention.I've worked on a house built in 1955 that had stack bond exterior walls - the termites came up inside the block cores and so did the carpenter ants. The ants ate through the 'flat' roof deck and tunneled out extensive areas of polyiso foam roof insulation.From the experience noted above, and others, I would grout the cores solid. My opinion is, that as chemical treatment becomes less and less effective, good construction practice, including non-construction issues like not allowing cutoffs to be buried in fill areas, etc. and physical barriers to insects will be more and more important. b Been there, done that, no more chlordane ...

2. 
   Tom_Bank | May 30, 2000 11:00pm | #4

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   That is about what I was thinking, Jeff. I am in Pennsylvania, by the way. Only problem is that the structure is already built. Grouting the cores solid at this point would be a major hassle. I could possibly jack things up, cut out the sill plate, and go around grouting the cells if it came to that. Not sure that I really want to think about that unless it is the only way.

3. 
   Guest_ | May 31, 2000 03:02am | #5

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   Do ants and termites eat CCA treated lumber? You would unbolt or denail the sill from the block to grout cells? Or foam , or termite shield? Call terminex and get on a maintenace program . If they are coming up through cells in the block, then they could surely just mud tube up the outside to get there also. Would any of you REALLY jack up a building just to fill some cells or put in a shield?Hmmmmmmmmmm obsessive compulsive behavior me thinks.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 31, 2000 08:19am | #6

   *No, obviously I wouldn't jack up the walls or remove the sill to do it (see below). I thought it sounded like the cores might be partially accessible.

4. 
   Tom_Bank | May 31, 2000 03:45pm | #7

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   There are no termites in the structure at this time. However, there are several buildings with termite damage nearby. Was just helping my neighbor do some repair work this weekend caused by termites...
   Yes, they could mud tube up the outside of the wall, but I could see that and take action. I am concerned that if they come up the cores I will not notice a problem until after it has become serious. Also, I have seen cases where they have gone through the pressure treated lumber to get to the untreated lumber above. The sill plate currently covers the cores, but it would be easier to do something now than after everything is insulated and drywalled.
   Just that with a known termite problem in the area, I would rather take preventative measures now than do extensive repair work later...

5. 
   Guest_ | Jun 08, 2000 07:23am | #8

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   Tom,

   Grouting the cores solid is the best thing to do, but not if you have to remove the sill plate and jack up walls. Don't jack up anything! If you have any room at all between the sill plate and the block core cells, then spray in polyurethane foam (the expanding kind). the foam will insulate the block and should discourage termites from boring through.

   One question, some of the cores must be filled right? Otherwise, how are your anchor bolts holding down your sill plate? Your plate is bolted down, right? This guy didn't use Tapcon screws between the blocks did he? I've known guys to do this by reasoning that the weight of the building will hold everything in place, but what they forget is that strong winds can cause "uplift". Screws are no substitute for bolts!

   If your sill plate completely covers the block cores and allows you no access, you could drill small holes in the plate in order to spray the foam into the cores.

   Good luck.

   Davo

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 08, 2000 06:33pm | #9

   *If there is evidence of termite damage nearby, I'd spray. Might be one of those occassions where buying a termite "contract" (essentially an insurance policy) might make sense.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 08, 2000 11:41pm | #11

   *Thinking out load here: how about boring holes into each of the voids (say about 1/2 - 3/4 inch) either through the sill plate or through the side of the block using a hammer drill (rent one or use the excuse wisely ); find out what the pest exterminators use and buy some at a nearby farm supplier (they carry all sorts of chemicals and treat it yourself - or drill th holes and work out a deal with an applicator to do the application (a big chunk of the cost is the drilling and parging)I believe the chemicals they use will last a number of years.Of course, check to see if home brewed pest treatment is legal in your area.Bob

6. 
   Tom_Bank | Jun 08, 2000 11:41pm | #10

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   A few years ago, I had a two storey garage/workshop framed out for myself. The builder knew my plans to finish the inside at a later date. I am now to the point where I am ready to finish the inside and came across a problem. The design has a low concrete block wall (3 courses above the concrete floor on the first storey) with wood framed walls above. It turns out that there is no cap block (solid block) to the concrete block walls, they are just capped with a pressure treated sill. Thinking about moisture and termite problems, should I do anything about this before I start finishing the inside of the structure? I have had a couple ideas of trying to jack up the walls and insert either a EDPM membrane or metal flashing of some sort under the sills. Other ideas have involved trying to fill in the cores of the top row of block. Any comments, suggestions, or such would be greatly appreciated...